Saturday, September 15, 2018

A Massive Storm's Brewing in the Aegean



Jeff—Saturday

This weekend the Southeast US and the Philippines face horrendous storms.  The in-your-face enormity of the potential tragedy faced by the people in the storms’ paths got me to thinking about the region of the world in which I spend more time than anywhere else on earth: Greece’s Aegean Cycladic Islands.


There’s a storm raging through my part of the Aegean.  It’s already hit hard on Mykonos, Santorini, too, and alerts are sounding on other islands.  Paros, Naxos, and Milos sit directly in its path, but they’re far from the only ones at risk.

It is a devilishly cunning storm; one that comes ashore subtly, offering welcome rain to drought parched islanders, and in so doing distracting the citizenry from the great risks their island faces from what’s coming: gale force winds to level its unprepared institutional authority, torrential rains that drown those brave enough to challenge the invading storm’s will, and massive flooding to forever alter the island’s landscape.

It is a storm unlike any other, for what gives it energy is not warm waters, but cold hard cash.


The islands are experiencing an influx of tourism money unlike any ever experienced before.  And there is no sign of it going away anytime soon. Yes, the types and origins of tourists will change—they always do—and some islanders will go bust because they misjudged the market, but tourism cash will keep coming, and if cash remains the piper, islanders appear willing to keep dancing to the tune, no matter how foreign it may be to their own culture and values.


The islanders say, “We’re just giving the tourists what they want.”  That’s a seductively understandable explanation, one quite compelling on the surface, but dig deeper and you’ll find its insidious ramifications. 

Let’s start from this proposition. If you are willing to provide an environment where the purveyors of vices and their clientele may freely conduct their business without threat of official repercussions, you will always make money.


So, enter the one-week-long tourist (four days longer than the average stay on Mykonos), who during those days lives as if Sodom and Gomorrah is alive and well.  The tourist leaves to return to life at home, one far more limited, ordered and restrictive than the one just enjoyed for a week.  What are the chances of that person’s behavior patterns having been changed by a one-week binge?

Now, let’s look at the islander who spends between four and five months a year, “just giving the tourists what they want.”  How great do you think is the risk facing the islander enabling such aberrant tourist behavior, that it is the islander’s family values that will suffer as a consequence?

Just think about it.

I’m not preaching morality here. I’m just saying that islands that see a golden pot of money to be made in chasing after tourist cash ought to take a long hard look at how far they are willing to go to get it.

Making a deal with the Devil is not new. Nor are the consequences.  The Devil is charming, the Devil is clever, and the Devil knows how to subtly make a deal for the souls of the innocent as well as the greedy. 
 


In other words, Islanders, heed the warning signs. One hell of a storm is headed your way.

Prepare, if you wish to have a say in saving your island.

—Jeff

9 comments:

  1. No man is an island, but we all live on one...

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  2. And then the waves scrub away all the muck, and when the wildness beckons we block our ears like Odysseus and sail into the harbor to marvel at the madness, the glitter, the secrets, the dreams, the new, and always the old. The ancient headlands that still talk about the Delian league and the same scent of magical herbs. The most magical scent of all, money.

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  3. Think about it? You know better than you want to, my brother, that I can think of nothing else when I think of Mykonos--that they are selling their culture, the birthright of their children. For me, it is about morality. Not the petty kind that says sex is dirty. The kind that says it is sacred. And mustn't be sold. They are selling the soul of their ancient culture that defined beauty. Tawdry. Ugly. Profane. Heartbreaking.

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  4. is there any sense of the situation getting 'less'. Places have sunk to depths then got a wake up call and started a moral clean up, reinvented themselves so to speak. Or do you think the islands have settled into fruitful niche and are going to stay there. It's all cyclical. Somewhere else will become the 'trendy' place to go, the islands will have to provide another type of attraction. I have just had the image of a warrior nun saving the place.

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  5. You have asked a very important question, Caro, involving a very complex answer...and I shall respond seriously--partially in fear of the warrior nun image lurking out there.

    The problems are obvious, everyone knows them, everyone sees them, everyone is affected by them in some way or another, but no one dares do anything about them. Is it because they're worn down by the financial crisis, and consider all the money coming their way a gift horse they should not dare look in the mouth? Or is it fear at challenging those in public and private life who've taken tight-fisted control of the island's operations? Frankly, I think it's some of both.

    I also believe the wake-up call has been heard, but too many of those who heard it prefer to doze, rather than rise up. Until that dynamic changes, the future is a very iffy proposition.

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