New Shoshong from the hills |
Few people outside Botswana have heard of Shoshong, yet in its day it was a very important town in southern Africa – much more so than the current capital of Gaborone (which hardly existed at that time) and many South African towns that are now regarded as significant. Founded in the mid nineteenth century, it was chosen for two critical reasons – it is protected on the north by a horseshoe of hills which are difficult to climb because of screes of dolomite boulders, and it had comparatively plentiful water from the Bonwapitse river which flows into the town through a gorge in the hills. Since the Matabele to the north were pretty unfriendly neighbors at the time, the hills were a welcome shield. The leader of the Bangwato people, Sekgoma I, made it his capital when he conquered the Bakaa people in 1849. His son, Khama III, consolidated and built Shoshong into a strategic center which peaked at around 30,000 people.
Shoshong hills |
The town thrived because it was strategically placed on the main road north between what is now southern Botswana and what is now Zimbabwe. It became an important trading center and was host to hunters, missionaries, and famous explorers - including David Livingstone - who passed through. Some Europeans settled there and traces of their tin-roofed rectangular houses and artifacts have been found in the area. Christianity was introduced by John Mackenzie in 1868 when he built the Moffat Institution for the London Missionary Society there. (A church bell was found in the area – the only surviving evidence of the church.) You could be forgiven for assuming that Shoshong was there to stay.
Buttress over the gorge |
But
Shashong’s Achilles’ heel was the very reason for its existence – the river. A prolonged drought and the population’s stress on
the environment left the town almost dry and surrounded by semi-desert. By 1889 the town was described as “a filthy place
with only one trickling well.” Khama III
told his people to pack up and move, which they did, leaving behind a ghost
town which was soon reclaimed by the wind.
Graves old and new |
Little remains to be seen of Old Shoshong, only the remains of the stone walls and the graves both old and new that are filling the space between the Kgotla (meeting place at the north of the new town) and the gorge.
Old walls |
Learning to drive in New Shoshong |
But it never regained its importance. When Cecil Rhodes planned his Cape to Cairo railway, he sited it well to the east of Shoshong and the trade route moved with it. Sic transit gloria mundi.
Michael - Thursday
Pictures by Jonathan Everitt
M&S.
Ahh, a forty year reign...or rather no rain.
ReplyDeleteAnd yes, I can see it now Detective Kubu, our man in Shoshong.
Barumphump.
Michael, I looked it up on the map. It seems pretty well in the middle of no where. What is bringing people to repopulate the town? Middle of no where or NOT, I will follow Kubu wherever he goes, singing along with him all the way.
ReplyDeleteHas quite a rich history, Shoshong. Its not rising again, just surviving. Well, when Khama moved the town to Palapye, another group, the Baphaleng that had moved with him decided to return to Shoshong because a large number of them had died from some mysterious illness. Would love to see a mystery based on my home-village. I'm gonna try out my first Dec Kubu!
ReplyDeleteHi One,
ReplyDeleteOur new book DEATH IN THE FAMILY is largely based in Shoshong. We find it a fascinating and dramatic setting. And Pitsane Hill also. We hadn't heard about the "mysterious illness". If you have any references or more info on Shoshong we'd be very grateful.
Thanks for the comment!
Hi Michael. I have been working on a short history of Shoshong - a draft is at http://kwangu.com/temp/ if you want to have a look.
ReplyDeleteJacob
Hi Jacob. Your history is terrific! We've been looking for something like this because it's such a fascinating area and story. Our new mystery centers around a fictional event there. Thanks very much for the draft of your history.
DeleteIt would be great to meet you sometime when we're next in Botswana.
Michael.
PS I would like to use one of your photos of Pitsane Hill if that is OK ?
ReplyDeleteJacob
Of course, you are more than welcome. If you'd like a higher resolution version, just send me an email at michael@detectivekubu.com
DeleteJust to say the final version of the history is now available at www.kwangu.com/shoshong
ReplyDelete