The Lanterns of Kasuga Shrine

--Susan, every other Sunday

Kasuga Taisha (Kasuga Shrine) is one of Japan's most important Shintō holy sites. The shrine was established in 768, in what is now Nara Park (located in the city and prefecture of Nara, Japan).

Most people know Nara Park for its sacred, and friendly, deer.

The hondō, or main worship hall, enshrines four deities: Takemikazuchi-no-mikoto, Futunushi-no-mikoto, Amenokoyane-no-mikoto, and Himegami. The deities have Buddhist analogues as well, and are worshipped by priests from nearby Buddhist temples as well as the Shintō priests who manage Kasuga Shrine.

The hondō at Kasuga Taisha

Among other important religious and cultural features, Kasuga Taisha is known for the thousands of bronze and stone lanterns that line the temple's halls and paths. (The total number exceeds 3,000.) Each of the lanterns represents a donation to the shrine--a practice that continues to this day.

Rows of toro (standing lanterns) near the worship hall.

The oldest lanterns are almost a thousand years old:

Despite the moss, this lantern is only about 400 years old.

During the medieval period, only samurai and the wealthiest merchants could afford to donate an entire lantern. Many famous samurai, including members of the Tokugawa shogunate and other daimyō (samurai lords) donated lanterns--which still stand at the shrine today.

Some of the lanterns donated by famous dudes.

However, groups of common people also joined together to donate a toro as a group. This one was donated by a group of 800 different people who pooled their money to pay for this single lantern.

The lantern on the right was donated by 800 individuals, working together.

Kasuga Taisha's hanging lanterns are made of bronze. They start out golden:

Recently-donated lanterns. Each represents a donation of 2 million Japanese yen.

...but slowly acquire a greenish-grey patina, a process that takes 40-50 years.

Older, but no less beautiful.

Until the end of the Meiji Era (July 30, 1912) the lanterns were lit every night at sunset. Today, they're lit only twice a year: on December 31, and during the August Obon celebration, when the veil between this world and the next grows thin, and the spirits of the dead return to visit (and hopefully bless) the living.

Watching for the ancestors, or just waiting for treats? Hard to tell.

Since most visitors won't be able to return for the lighting ceremony, Kasuga Taisha maintains a "dark room" filled with illuminated lanterns, so visitors can experience a piece of the lantern ceremony at any time of day, every day of the year.

I love Japanese lanterns--their five-tiered shape represents the Buddhist elements (earth, water, fire, air, and spirit), and at night they give a lovely, gentle light. At Kasuga Taisha, they also pay homage to centuries of faith in the deities that protect Japan and the Japanese people, which makes them even lovelier.

If you find yourself in Nara, by all means, go see the deer--but don't forget to visit Kasuga Shrine and its famous lanterns too.

Let's Take a Trip to Nara, Deer....

-- Susan, every other Sunday.

The ancient city of Nara, Japan, served as the nation's capital from 710-794 (an era not surprisingly called the "Nara period").

Today, Nara remains a major historical and religious center, as well as a mecca for foreign and Japanese tourists.

The Daibutsuden (Great Buddha Hall) at Todaiji

Among the city's many sites are Todaiji, a Buddhist temple which is also home to one of the largest bronze Buddhas in Japan:

The Great Buddha measures 49' high.

and Kasuga Taisha, one of Japan's preeminent Shinto shrines:

The front gates of Kasuga Taisha, seen from the side (they're too large for one frame from the front)

Both Todaiji and Kasuga Taisha lie within the borders of Nara Park, a 502 hectare public park designated a Japanese "Place of Scenic Beauty."

A few of the stone lanterns that line the approach to Kasuga Taisha, within Nara Park

In addition to being the site of numerous Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines, Nara Park is home to over 1,000 sacred sika (deer), which are designated Japanese national treasures.

He's sacred ... and he knows it.

According to Japanese history (or legend, depending on your view), several thousand years ago the god Takemikazuchi (one of the primary kami worshipped at Kasuga Shrine) descended from heaven riding a white deer--an act which transformed the humble sika into a sacred animal. From that time forward, Nara's sika were considered sacred (and until 1637, killing or harming one was punishable by death).

No fear of humans. Or bicycles, for that matter.

Today, the deer in Nara park have absolutely no fear of humans, partly because of the strict laws barring people from harming or killing them and partly because park visitors can purchase "sika senbei" (deer biscuits) to feed the deer at dozens of vendors and stalls throughout the park.

Who's buying these senbei, anyway?

The deer congregate around the vendors, waiting for suckers patrons to purchase a package of crackers (I tried to photograph the ones I bought, but I think the photos demonstrate how quickly that effort failed). A package of 10 deer crackers costs about $1.50 ... and guarantees you an instant, up-close-and-exceptionally-personal encounter with at least a dozen sacred deer.

He bought the crackers.

If you buy them -- they won't come. They're ALREADY HERE.

As soon as the vendor hands over the crackers, all bets are off from the deer's perspective. Visitors who try to hide the crackers in pockets or handbags quickly learn that deer can pull the pockets off your jeans. (And no, that is NOT a joke.)

Hand over the cracker, and no one gets hurt.

They will also knock over small children, steal purses, and pinch your wallet if they think you might have hidden a cracker inside.

Beautiful, fuzzy ... and experienced muggers, every one.

When not assaulting hapless victims foolish enough to purchase crackers, Nara's deer are actually beautiful, gentle creatures. Many enjoy letting visitors rub their ears and pet them (though they'll generally wander off if someone across the way decides to purchase crackers and you haven't got any left to offer).

Willing to stay, until there's a better offer.

If you find yourself in Japan with an afternoon to spare, I definitely advise a trip to Nara. The temples are lovely, the shrines spectacular ... and there's something pretty special about being able to say you fed (or were mugged by) a deer.