Dunstaffnage Castle lies up near Oban, around where my next
book is going to be set. It’s surrounded on three sides by the sea, lying at
the entrance to Loch Etive, sitting out on a promontory. This part of Scotland,
it was pointed out to me has very similar geology to Norway, lots of fjords
really and on each side of every inlet/ fjord /loch we have a castle.
To keep the Norwegians out.
I wouldn't like to run up here then start a fight
Maybe in olden times there weren’t enough midges in Scandinavia,
so the invaders came here in search of more torture The prefix ‘dun’ means
"fort" in Gaelic and the rest of the name means the headland of the
staff in Norse.
There has been some kind of fortification on this site since
the 800s. The castle, as it is now, was built in local sandstone by Duncan
MacDougall of Lorn in 1220 and controlled by the Clan MacDougall until 1309.
Then the Clan Campbell from c.1470 to the present day when they handed it over
to Historic Scotland in the late 50s.
The outlook from the castle
Dunstaffnage Castle Guarding a strategic location and seems
to get involved in any local skirmish or war that was going on.
There is also a hereditary title, the Captain of
Dunstaffnage who is allowed to reside at the 16th century gatehouse as he tends
to the castle and the armaments. He tends not to stay as there would be tourists
walking past his front door every two minutes. To keep the title, he has to stay
at the castle for three nights of the year. He no longer has the
right to bear arms.
Three waterways join here
There has probably been some kind of fortification here
since the year 800 or so, the stone of destiny was supposed to have been hidden
here after coming over from Ireland, but again many places of historic interest
claim that. And many claim to have hidden Bonnie Prince Charlie. This castle
claims to have hidden Flora MacDonald.
A waterway to bring the boats to the castle
In short, the MacDougalls
took control of the castle in the 13th century. Duncan MacDougall’s
son Ewen took his father’s title in 1240 and called himself the "King of
the Isles”. When Alexander III's drove the Norsemen away from Argyll, the
MacDougalls backed the Scottish monarchy. They then supported the Balliol side in
the Wars of Scottish Independence, when Robert Bruce defeated the MacDougalls
at the Battle of the Pass of Brander in 1308, he took control of the castle. It
was then seized by the crown in 1431 when James 1st realised his
enemies were hiding inside after the battle of Inverlochy. So, he went in after
them.
An interesting story is that John Stewart of Lorn, a keeper
of the castle, was a huge rival of Alan MacDougall. A MacDougall stabbed Stewart
on his way to his marriage at Dunstaffnage Chapel in 1463. He survived long
enough to make his vows. Then died.
Manmade inlet to let the boats in
The castle has swapped hands in war and in peace, been set
on fire, and has basically been falling apart since 1725. In 1958, the 21st
captain and the duke at the time handed the castle to state care and it’s now open
to the public as a Historic Environment Scotland property.
View from the small beach at the castle
The castle is a very strong irregular quadrangle, with rounded towers at three corners. It’s about 30 by 35 metres and sits on a slight but exhausting rise in the land. Probably three of four stories, half ruined, half restored are inside. We didn’t go as there was a man dressed in olden garb trying to talk us through the events and history of the castle, so we ran away.
The castle has a ghost called "Ell-maid of Dunstaffnage". It’s a type of gruagach, and the appearances are associated with events in the hereditary keepers’ lives.
Caro Ramsay
Posts
I'd never heard of such a creature and had to look it up: The gruagach was a fairy being with protective duties in Scottish legends, apparently of either sex, but generally female. The gruagach was particularly associated with cattle, and milk was laid aside for him or her every evening—otherwise no milk would be given at the next milking.
ReplyDeleteAn always fascinating read, Caro.
The castle is set in lovely grounds, natural grass and old woods. Lots of dog walking going on.
DeleteDoes that mean the tourists have to walk like a dog? Sort of like "dead man walking?" Or do you have to walk with one leg raised?
DeleteThese are important questions that your piece leaves unanswered.
I now understand why a buddy of mine named Bruce MacDougall was so committed to Oban whisky. But all I want to know is where does Mel Gibson fit in among all these MacDougalls, Stewarts, and Bruces?
ReplyDeleteWhat a fabulous setting! Gee, Caro, you could set a contemporary story there, or, if you were a nerd like me, you could set a historical thriller in such a place. Setting is so important to me, and I find this one fascinating!!
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ReplyDelete