Tuesday, December 30, 2014

Diana Chambers: Searching the Streets of Time


It gives me great pleasure to introduce Diana Chambers, a lovely friend and writer who as she says "was born with a book in one hand and a passport in the other.” She’s been in the Asian importing business, in Hollywood costume design, then scriptwriting—until her characters as Diana says “demanded their own novels." And so her character, Nick Daley shows up in Stinger, somewhere near the Khyber Pass, a romantic spy thriller which is a recent Audible release, with the sequel in production. 

Diana lives in a small Northern California town. Her bag is always packed. A few months ago I read about her summer travels - treat yourself and visit her blog - and found her moving post on Budapest. For Diana, this wasn’t a tourist trip but a journey back to find out about family. To see where her relatives had lived. And to find memories and traces of those who didn’t survive the death camps. They say to understand the macrocosm you must comprehend the microcosm. This is a time of being with family and thank you Diana for joining our ‘family’ today and sharing this poignant journey.  Cara  
Last summer, my brother’s big birthday bash launched our travels through Europe By Train. http://dianarchambers.blogspot.com/2014/09/revisiting-europe-by-train.html. Cara Black was struck by my post from Budapest and asked me to recount it now, a story of family, a lost home, and murder.


We often think of the road not taken in a symbolic sense, but sometimes there is a very specific road, one that can lead to death—or life. We came to Budapest to ask: Merre va Margit Hid? Where is Margaret Bridge? And Merre va Deak Ferencz utca 21? Where is the old home of my nieces’ grandmother?


We arrived from Prague after a six-hour train journey. On the Pest side of the Danube, Keleti Railway Terminal is vast and old, witness to the sweep of history, armies of many nations, peoples on the move.


Across the river, Buda is even older, dominated by Castle Hill, a citadel against the 13C Mongol hordes.


There have been other invaders over the years, but the Nazi regime evokes particular shivers of fear and hate. Past is present in Europe and every street, every bridge are landmarks of a life.

My nieces’ grandmother, Ann, and younger sister, Vali, had lived with their widowed mother, Rose Gabor, at Deak Ferencz utca 21 in the center of Pest. Then in 1944, the first Jewish deportees were sent to Auschwitz—in freight trains that may have left from Keleti Station. The family was torn apart, forced to hide in three Christian homes on the Buda hillsides. On the day of their road not taken, a bitter reunion took place when they were arrested by Hungarian Arrow Cross fascists and marched toward Margit Bridge.


Rose, seeing a work unit walking along the river, pulled her girls into that line—in the blink of an eye changing their fates, and that of my family itself. Without her quick thinking, my two wonderful nieces would have never been born.


We stood on that bridge corner imagining those horrific days, the soldiers, the fear. Unable to return to their home, Rose turned to a Christian friend, Lily, who sheltered them through the war. Despite heavy bombing, the old stone building at Deak Ferencz utca 21 endured. Here is its courtyard.


Rose ran her couture business below their apartment, its front balcony now overlooking a busy pedestrian mall. 


The apartment is not far from Parliament with Margit Bridge in the distance.


Just south of Parliament is the memorial to Jews shot into the Danube by Arrow Cross thugs, impatient as the Russians closed in.


It was like a punch in the gut to see these shoes lined up along the quay. Delicate button-ups and high-heels, work-boots, all facing the river.


The cold black water below...the silence...and then the bullets, and cries as family and friends fall into the river. Shot in the back.


The cruel scene evoked in mute simplicity, the shoes old and worn, a child’s beside her mother’s.


If not for Rose’s quick wits, this would have been their fate—or the trains.


It is impossible to walk the streets of Europe without the visceral experience of history. The passage of time, regimes, lives, deaths. The statue or plaque of a famous person now unknown. An ordinary street corner where a mother made a life-changing decision. 

In 1941, 725,000 Jews lived in Hungary. 600,000 of them died during WW2.




12 comments:

  1. Your story and photos bring this alive, Diana. Thank you!

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    1. Thank you, Cara, for urging me to write this. I feel this version was deeper and I'm grateful for the chance to document the story.

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  2. Oh, Diana. Those shoes! The city, so beautiful; the acts of the Nazis, so horrific. I struggle to understand how men who called themselves human could have committed such acts. Thank you for giving us this sad and beautiful post.

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    1. I know, Annamaria. The shoes. This powerful monument was only created within the past ten or so years. While writing this I felt the urgency to document these stories.

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  3. Thank you, Diana. Your few words and that picture of shoes along the Danube... heart-wrenching!

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    1. Thanks for reading, Everett. You're right, it was a profound experience standing there, staring down into the cold black waters. Glad I was about to convey that.

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  4. Pictures and stories of a very tragic time for the world. We need to remember to never let it happen again.

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    1. You are right, Jono. I realized that if history is not recorded, it may not exist for future generations.

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  5. LIfe and death are so very random, so very often. Tragic how the times have not changed, just the locations of the genocide.

    Those shoes...

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    1. So random. Why we were born now, in this safe place. I dashed off my original blog while traveling and feel really fortunate to have this opportunity to revisit the experience. So thanks, Jeff and Cara (again).

      And yes, those shoes...

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  6. My family emigrated from from Austria, and their best friends were from Hungary, I believe from the Buda side. Their stories were shattering, and so are your pictures. I'm glad the shoes are permanent. So very moving. Thank you for bringing to us.

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    1. Thank you, Lil. The past is not so far away, is it?

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