Saturday, October 26, 2013

To Preach or Not to Preach...

I had this really catchy title for my post today.  “From Never Neverland to One-Half-Too-Cleverland.”  I planned on exploring the differences between Mykonos and Athens, for on Tuesday I leave the former for the latter.  

It seemed the appropriate occasion for such a piece, what with Mykonos having come off a high season seemingly impervious to the financial crisis wreaking havoc upon the rest of Greece—the island still attracts rich tourists spending as if there’s no tomorrow, though the current crop hails from countries east (near and far) of here…and I don’t mean Cyprus—while Athens is laid siege by editorial headlines suggesting a polity unable to stay out of its own way: “A country striving for normality,” “Greece wanders in uncertainty’s wasteland,” “Doing business, but with rules,” “The specter of early elections,” and “Words are a dangerous thing.” (All from today’s Kathimerini, Greece’s equivalent of The New York Times)

But why get into all that on my last week in Greece?   Yes, the current government is dancing along a tightrope as special interest groups clumped on both ends take turns yanking on the line, desperately hoping the government can’t make it across (Feel free to work with me on the metaphor), but as a famous statesman once said, “What? Me worry?”

Honorable Alfred E. Neuman

Nope, not this week. Maybe next. This week it’s all peace and love, calm seas and rose sunsets, tranquility and food, and in keeping with that admonition, today we headed off to a late lunch at one of the most idyllic (and iconic) spots on Mykonos: Kiki’s at Agios Sostis Beach. You can’t get there by bus. Only by car, motorbike…or construction vehicle. (Sorry about that last bit of societal commentary, it just slipped out. I’ll try to control myself in the future.)

Agios Sostis Beach
View From Kiki's
More of a view from Kiki's
Good friends who live on Mykonos as many months each year as I do, suggested lunch there, at what “old Mykonos hands” know to be the chicest spot on the island.  In season, if you’re not in line for lunch by 1PM be prepared for an early dinner.  No line-jumping privileges for flashy spenders in this tiny, vines for a roof, gem.  I rarely get there during season as it’s on the other side of the island from my home, but in October (just before it closes) Kiki’s is simply magical. 

Inside looking outside

Don’t take my word for it; decide for yourself.
Some of the regulars
The remains of the meal
Sharing the remains of the day
Until next year, my friends
If you want to know about the car, it’s an old Volkswagon Kurierwagon.  My friends brought it with them from Germany many years ago, along with a deep love and appreciation for all things Greek.

Nuf’ said. 

Now on to Athens.



  1. Oh, thank Zeus. Now we can have a hiatus from the pain from Mr. Rubbing-it-in reminding us weekly that he eats in places with a glorious view while we have to content ourselves with entering under a scaffolding to eat pizza on East 12th Street.

    1. See how far I go out of my way to please you, Annamaria? Besides, pizza on 12th Street makes me homesick. Are you talking about John's or over east in my old neighborhood?

    2. Neither. It's new: Ribalta near Broadway. The view is industrial, but it's like eating pizza in Italy. If you have taken my comments in the good fun with which I wrote them maybe you will meet me there while you are in NYC. I HOPE.

    3. I can't imagine any other way to take your comments:) and a big yes on the rendezvous

  2. To reach or to overreach, that is the metaphorical question. 'Tis better to have wined and dined than to have never whined at all. Why, oh why, did the government cross the tight-rope? These are the thoughts that keep me up at night. Those, plus the aching, aging bones that keep my skin stretched semi-taut and partially inflated.

    That, plus the sentiment that Annamaria so eloquently slipped in like a shiv in the prison yard.

    Et tu, Brutus?

  3. Between Annamaria shiving me around the prison yard and you whining me toward the edge of the tightrope in the hope I'll say, "To get to the other side," I'm almost tempted to spend my few days in Athens ohotographing chocolate bars and sending them on to you both as my way of demonstrating how to turn a tau(n)ted cheek.

  4. Replies
    1. You're on Michael. Would you like to join Annamaria and me on 12th Street for pizza or has another location caught your imagination;)?

  5. Thanks for another day of travel. I imagine it's days like this that make the Greek quandary very bearable. Beautiful pictures!

    1. My pleasure, Lil, and there's still room at the table for lunch with Annamaria and Michael.

  6. These photos are so incredibly beautiful I ask how can anyone ever leave Mykonos? Or that beach?

    And I love those feline residents, quite content are they.

    Thanks for the pizza recommendation, Annamaria; it's hard, even in NYC to find excellent pizza.

    And am also heartened by the Greek government's deciding to stop giving state funds to the ultra-right bullies. Who knew they were getting government funds?
    Who was guarding the people's tax money?
    Anyway, they did it; hopefully, that will help to set back this group, and the legal troubles some are in may also weaken them.