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| Burgundy wine country. Photo Jill Wilson |
With a
title picture like that, there are no prizes for guessing that I’m in France
this week visiting a few of my favorite areas with wine-loving friends from
Australia. I’m not going to bore you with a list of restaurants visited, meals
eaten, and wines quaffed, but on Monday we had a different and interesting visit to a
Burgundy wine négociant - Olivier
Leflaive. They feel that most wine is drunk with food, and yet most tasting is
done in a fairly rushed environment of one wine after another with no
opportunity for comparison and certainly no wine and food pairing beyond,
perhaps, a crust of bread and a swig of water to clear the palate before the
next wine. In an attempt to move beyond
that, they cleared their tasting room, added a number of tables, hired a chef, and set up a food and wine pairing to show off their wines. The food is good regional cuisine – nothing
fancy – and it is chosen to work with the wines available for tasting. The five course lunch is 25 euros and you can
use it as a backdrop to 5, 7 or 9 wines.
Needless to say we chose the last option.
I know a
few other wineries attempt something similar.
Rockford in South Australia, for example, has wine lunches. But there the focus is on the food and company
with the wine to complement; at Leflaive it’s the other way around.
Leflaive is
in Puligny-Montrachet, one of the great white wine areas of Burgundy so
Chardonnay is the main focus. However,
they also make fine reds (pinot noir, of course) from the regions of Volnay and
Pommard a little to the north. Unfortunately,
when we fetched our friends at the railway station on Saturday, we were caught
in a vicious thunderstorm which peppered the car with hail. That hail wreaked
havoc on those red wine grapes, so 2014 is going to be a sad vintage there.
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| Olivier Leflaive |
But back to
Olivier Leflaive. Olivier himself was
something of a prodigal son. He studied
business in Paris, but then became an entertainer and subsequently an agent for
preforming artists, turning his back on the wine business (except for drinking
it, I would guess). However, in 1981 he
returned to take over the business and it went from strength to strength. He retired in 2010, handing over the reins to
the next generation.
The tasting
starts with an ordinary chardonnay – cheap and cheerful. But with a small cheese puff, it suddenly has
more richness and flavor. As sommelier Régis
put it – the wine is alive not only because it is changing in the bottle over
time, but also because you are changing – your mood, your age, what you are
eating, who you are with. You will enjoy
the expensive wines not only because they are better, but because you know they
are special. On the other hand, the
cheap and cheerful will work with good company and food and can still be
memorable. With a chuckle, he suggested
at least a case of each wine in the cellar to be tried from time to time, not
so much to see how the wine has changed, but to see how you have changed. And, of course, to try with various foods.
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| Régis indicating the different wine regions during the tasting |
We went on
to a parallel tasting of three 2010 whites, one each from Meersault, Chassagne-Montrachet
and Puligny-Montrachet. Some of us found
our favorite one changed with the seafood pâté. Then the same flight with
premier crus (one step up) from 2009 with, and without, chicken with morel
mushrooms. Then reds with, and without,
cheese and as expected a huge taste change with the food.
Dessert and
coffee were necessary punctuation points, but one’s mind remained fixed on the
wines and the extraordinary diversity they had exhibited in terms of vintage,
area, food pairing. It’s all summed up
by a French saying we saw at the restaurant we ate at last night: “Je boirai du
lait le jour où les vaches mangeront du raison!” That is: “I’ll drink milk the
day cows eat grapes!”
Santé!
Michael -
Thursday
