Jeff—Saturday
This weekend marks three celebratory events. Traditionally, May 1st ends the
hunker down winter mindset on Mykonos, and harbingers the coming joyful days of
summer—and still does, even though Covid times leave a bit more hunkering down left
to do. Do you remember your childhood days dancing around the maypole and crowning
the Queen of the May? You probably do if
you’re British, probably not if you were raised in the U.S.
This rejoicing for the change of seasons goes back to
ancient pagan days and virtually all northern hemisphere cultures had some sort
of “spring rite” festivities. The earliest festivals were linked to the Roman
goddess of flowers (Flora), Germanic celebrations of what is now called Walpurgis
Night (named after the patron saint of those suffering from rabies, it’s also
known as “the witches sabbath” coming precisely six months after All Hallows
Eve—interesting combination), and the Celtic Beltane (a springtime festival of
optimism).
On Mykonos locals take great pride in fashioning circular wreaths
out of grape vines tied off with bunches of wildflowers (aloe, statice,
geraniums, daises, lavender, and the like), angelica, olive, rosemary, wheat,
bay leaf, and for some, whole cloves of garlic.
They’re quite beautiful and for those wreaths proudly hung on front doors
which survive another Mykonian tradition—wreath heisting by neighborhood children—they’re
burned on the day of the Summer Solstice (June 22
nd) as the
adventuresome jump over the flames three times making a wish as they
do…probably not to burn off their you-know-whats in the process.
May 1
st also marks International Worker’s Day.
If you live virtually anywhere outside of the
U.S. you probably know that.
Inside,
likely not.
The U.S. has stuck to the
first Monday in September as its Labor Day and Americans generally associate
May 1
st with a communist or socialist workers holiday, complete with
grandiose military parades in such places as Russia, North Korea, and
Cuba.
I’d venture to say most Americans have no idea that
International Worker’s Day is officially celebrated in most countries around
the world not to glorify any foreign ideal or event, but to mark what occurred
in Chicago, Illinois on May 4, 1888. Permit
me to lift the following description of what happened from Wikipedia’s entry,
“The Haymarket Affair.”
“The Haymarket affair (also known as the Haymarket massacre
or Haymarket riot) refers to the aftermath of a bombing that took place at a
labor demonstration on Tuesday May 4, 1886, at Haymarket Square in
Chicago.
It began as a peaceful rally in support of workers
striking
for an eight-hour day. An unknown person threw a dynamite bomb at
police as they acted to disperse the
public meeting. The bomb blast and ensuing
gunfire
resulted in the deaths of seven police officers and at least four civilians,
and the wounding of scores of others.
“In the internationally publicized legal proceedings that
followed, eight anarchists were convicted of conspiracy, although the prosecution conceded
none of the defendants had thrown the bomb. Seven were sentenced to death and
one to a term of 15 years in prison. The death sentences of two of the
defendants were commuted by Illinois governor Richard J. Oglesby to terms of life in prison,
and another committed suicide in jail rather than face the gallows. The other
four were hanged on November 11, 1887. In 1893, Illinois’ new governor John Peter Altgeld pardoned the remaining
defendants and criticized the trial.
“The Haymarket affair is generally considered significant as
the origin of international May Day observances for workers. The site of the incident was designated a Chicago
Landmark on March 25, 1992, and a public sculpture was dedicated at
the site in 2004. The Haymarket Martyrs’ Monument in nearby Forest Park was
listed on the National Register of Historic Places
and designated a National Historic Landmark on February 18,
1997.”
And now we come to THE most significant celebration being
observed by Greeks all over the globe this weekend.
Tomorrow is Easter, by far the main event in Orthodoxy. It is preceded by more than a week of
significant religious and cultural observations, curtailed again this year
somewhat by the constraints of our times. But allow me to take you back to
pre-pandemic days on Mykonos, as a guide to a much prayed for return to the
future.
In the winter, Mykonos is a sleepy island village with
virtually no tourists, no business, few open bars, fewer restaurants, and no
clubs. But come Easter Week everything
changes. Red and yellow springtime
poppies burst to life all over the island’s hillsides, and those and still more
varieties of flowers embroider the blanket of green covering the nearby holy
island of Delos. There are Church
services every day of Holy Week, as well as daily preparations for the feast to
come at the end. Breads and cookies are
readied on Monday and Tuesday, baking is done on Wednesday, and eggs are dyed
red on Thursday, the day before Christ was put up on the Cross.
By Thursday, Mykonos is filled with mainland Greeks flocking
to their vacation homes and others looking to participate in a perfect example
of spiritual and temporal coexistence: Easter church rituals strictly observed
during the day, followed by the island’s as nearly hallowed party traditions
through the night.
But that taste of the
coming mid-summer craziness is short lived, for if you don’t catch the action
that weekend come by in June, because Mykonos is back in relative hibernation
until the tourists stream back to the island.
Evening services on Good Friday start at seven in the old
town’s three main churches, Kiriake, Metropolis, and Panachra. At precisely nine, each church’s clergy and
worshipers leave their church in separate processions carrying their church’s epitaphios (the painted or embroidered
cloth representation of Christ on a bier elaborately adorned in spring flowers
and symbolizing his tomb) along a prearranged route, winding past the other two
churches before ending up back at their own to complete the service. It represents the funeral of Christ, and
Mykonians and visitors line the route, some standing on balconies and
sprinkling the participants below with a mixture of rose water and perfumes,
the rodhonoro used on Christ’s body
when taken down from the cross.
The same three churches serve as the scene of the following
night’s Holy Saturday services.
Most
generally start heading off to church around ten, but for certain everyone is
there by midnight.
For that is the high
point of Easter, when church bells ring out across Greece and even total
strangers exchange the traditional
Christos
Anesti and
Alithos Anesti
greetings that Christ has risen, kiss each other, and light each other’s
candles to share the light and joy of the occasion—a light brought to Greece for
just this purpose from the Holy Flame of Christ’s nativity cave in
Jerusalem.
Worshipers carry the light
back into their homes or their favorite restaurants, except for the hearty
souls who remain in church for the balance of a service that lasts hours more
into the morning.
Now it is time to challenge each other with the customary
one-to-one smacking of those dyed-red eggs for good luck to the winner (mine
always cracks first) and devour the traditional
mayiritsa soup (made from parts of a lamb you may ask me about if
you really want to know), fluffy
tsoureki
easter bread, and salads to break the forty-day fast leading up to Easter.
But the big feast, the one everyone looks forward to, comes
on Sunday.
That’s when all the work of
the week and all the spring lambs find their purpose.
There is church, too, of course, but this day
is more about celebrating with family and friends.
And eating.
But what makes this Easter so special for Barbara and me--isolated as we are in the US for a second Greek Easter--is that her sons are flying in to join us. It will be the first time we've seen them in 17 months -- and they're bringing their own lamb!!
Dieting starts Monday.
Kalo Paska, God Bless, and STAY
SAFE.
—Jeff
Jeff's
in formation A DEADLY TWIST virtual tour schedule
Thursday,
May 6, 7 :30–9:00 p.m. ET
Riverstone Bookstore—Pittsburgh, PA
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