Showing posts with label La Befana. Show all posts
Showing posts with label La Befana. Show all posts

Sunday, January 5, 2025

Epiphany in Florence

Annamaria on Monday

Since the Feast of the Epiphany falls on Monday this Year, I am taking license to rerun a previous post on the subject.  Here is what I and my friends in Florence will be celebrating. 


January 6th, the twelfth day of Christmas, is the traditional end of holiday celebrations in Italy.  These days, many Italians call the day by the name of the Christmas witch.


Santa Claus has taken over the role of delivering Christmas gifts in the rest of the world, but though the old man from the North Pole can be seen hereabouts, so also can the traditional Italian bringer of gifts—La Befana.


In Italian folklore, La Befana, flying on a broom, comes down the chimney and brings good children candies, fruits, and little gifts and bad children lumps of coal.  These days—Italians being a child-friendly race—the lumps of coal are actually very dark caramels.


The name La Befana is thought to be a corruption of the word “epiphania,” the name for the feast commemorating the visit of the three kings to the infant Jesus.  Those oriental visitors brought the newborn baby gifts.  And their legend figures in the lore of La Befana.  There are many version of her connection with the wise men’s journey to the babe in Bethlehem.  My favorite has her a loving mother whose child has died.  Following the star leading them to Jesus, the kings from the east pass her way.  Mad with grief, on hearing of the child they seek, she imagines that he is her son.  She too goes with gifts for the child.  Delighted to receive her, the infant Jesus gives her a gift in return.  She will be the mother of every child in Italy.  On the eve of January 6th every year, she goes to every house where there is a child and leaves gifts.  Like a good mother, she rewards the good children with sweets and admonishes the bad ones with lumps of coal.

Anthropologists trace the legend of La Befana back to new-year pagan celebrations of ancient Rome, during which gifts were exchanged and fertility and agriculture celebrated.  As you can imagine, those New Year’s feasts had a licentious and raucous character.  Here is Ottorino Respighi’s musical portrayal of the modern celebration in the Piazza Navona in which you will hear echoes of those riotous Romans of old.  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GsLj3wlycPw



Detail of Gozzoli's gorgeous Adoration of the Magi in the Palazzo Medici-Ricardi

Here in Florence, the city celebrates La Befana with a parade in Renaissance costume.












I celebrated with friends at lunch in my favorite restaurant in the world.  Tortino ai carciofi, osso buco alla fiorentina, pera carmelatta.  EXQUISITE! 



 
The elegant gentleman in this picture, I am so sorry to have to say, has since left us. He took great pride in his native city and taught me a great deal about it.  Ti manco, Marcello.

Monday, January 14, 2019

Florence Dawn to Dusk and by Night

Annamaria on Monday

Here are some sights I've seen over the past week, which began with the celebration, last Sunday with the Feast of the Epiphany, which in Florence is called La Befana, after the Italian equivalent of Santa Claus.  This gift-giver is a woman and comes on the day commemorating those legendary gift-givers, the Magi.

La Befana in a chocolate shop

Over the past few years, it has become my tradition to invite the family that so generously includes me in their Christmas celebration to enjoy a special lunch with me on La Befana.  This year, we gathered to taste the delights of Chef Eduardo Tilli at his Agriturismo Podere Belvedere near Pontassieve in the Tuscan countryside.



Tilli is a kitchen magician.  I don't want to risk pins of envy being stuck in dolls meant to resemble me, so I won't describe all the six courses.  I offer only one example: my dessert.  It was described as orange cheese cake - a totally inadequate moniker for this:


It looked like a fresh orange balanced on some chocolate bits.

Inside, it was ambrosia!  Sweet creamy cheese filling between
two layers of the subtlest bright orange sugar glaze,
with an intensely-orange filling.  The chocolate bits only
added to the fun!  I wanted another one, IMMEDIATELY!
I want another one RIGHT NOW!
Our fast-developing chef Lorenzo Brandini with Chef Tilli


That evening, we took one last look at the view from Chef Tilli's front door and drove back to Florence for one last look at the holiday projections.








I spent the intervening week enjoying the gorgeous atmosphere of my home away from home.

Dawn






Dusk

Dome of the historic synagog.


Dome of the duomo



Nightime






"Speranza" means hope.  May hope light up our lives!

In the intervening hours between dawn and dusk, I have been hard at my work in progress.  Writing a book is an act of hope.  I hope that one day, I will have a lot more to say about the story that is forming in my imagination now.