Constantia revisted

Michael - Thursday

If you notice some similarity between this post and an earlier one, then all I can say is that you have a very good memory. It overlaps the first blog I posted in 2009. Partly because not many memories are that good, partly because it leads into next weeks post (about Bonaparte, but not the one mentioned here), and partly because tomorrow is the absolute deadline for the fifth rewrite of our book, I thought it was worth resurrecting.

In 1652 Jan van Riebeeck landed at what became the Cape of Good Hope with the aim of providing fresh produce for ships of the Dutch East India Company on the way to and from the Indies.  Ostensibly because wine was supposed to help scurvy but perhaps for a quiet tipple on the side, he planted the first vineyard three years later.  And on the 2^nd of February 1659, he was able to proclaim: “Today, praise be to God, wine was pressed from Cape grapes for the first time”.  By all accounts the wine was pretty foul - not too surprising given the level of expertise around. The Netherlands is not renowned for her wine.

But van Riebeeck was succeeded twenty years later by Simon van der Stel, an interesting if contentious character, who did know about wine and saw the opportunity for a guilder or two to come his way also.  He was the son of Adriaan van der Stel and Maria Lievens, the daughter of a freed Indian slave woman, which made him “coloured” in the racial parlance of the apartheid government.  (Needless to say this was not a feature emphasized in the school history text books of the day.)

The Cape peninsular has a climate not too different from that of southern Europe with winter rainfall and moderate temperatures.  It's the area of South Africa which most reminds people of the Continent with gnarled oak lined streets and the genteel plants that thrive in the “old country”. Van der Stel carefully selected a wine farm for himself along the southern slopes of the Cape peninsular, actually testing the soils and choosing a cool microclimate with winds from the sea.  He called the estate Constantia and did very well.

But the wines that made Constantia famous came later when Hendrik Cloete moved from
Stellenbosch (named after van der Stel) and bought a portion of the Constantia estate.  He planted new vines and specialised in a wine made from grapes ripened almost to raisins on the vine, matured in vats, and fortified.  The wine was called simply Constantia and it held its own with all the choice sweet wines with the rich and famous of the day.  All this came to an end late in the nineteenth century when phylloxera devastated the vineyards.  Still, a few bottles survive to this day.  A wine-writer friend of mine was fortunate to taste one some years ago and pronounced it still luscious after two hundred years.

A famous story about Constantia is that it was one of Napoleon's favourite wines and he received a regular supply to cheer him up on Saint Helena - an island off the west coast of Africa to which he was exiled the second time after Elba couldn't hold him. A juicy twist was that the British used the wine to kill him with small doses of arsenic poisoning, but if arsenic was involved, it was more likely to have been from the glue in the wall paper. The modern consensus seems to be that he died of stomach cancer and that spoils the tale altogether.

In 1980 a new estate named Klein Constantia (part of the original van der Stel estate) decided to try to recreate the wine.  It was to be a sweet desert wine in the late harvest style – not botrytis – with the berries hand-selected.  The venture was a stunning success and celebrated in the name – Vin de Constance – and in copies of the old Constantia hand-made bottles which the estate uses for the modern wine.  It's available outside South Africa – a friend in Australia has a good selection of vintages, and I've had a bottle in a restaurant in New York.  If you like dessert wines, this one is worth trying if you have the chance.  

You can imagine you're sharing the bottle with Bismark or Napoleon or King George... It will set you back more than a few dollars though. The wine has become something of a collectors item.

The Fairest Cape

This is the story that got deleted in the "maintenance" that Blogger undertook inevitably - with my luck - late last Wednesday night.  I still think it was in retaliation for the poor rating for San Francisco but that wasn't my fault; Tripadvisor didn't consult me.  Which brings us to the point of the story. 
Probably anyone who has investigated an unfamiliar holiday destination has ended up scratching around Tripadvisor.  The website lets you see images of the country and links to a plethora of hotels and tourist destinations.  And best of all – in our interactive world – previous visitors to the country and its establishments can give their ratings and post their comments.  There’s no question that what ebooks are to bookstores, sites like Tripadvisor are to travel agents.

Victoria & Albert Waterfront at night

For the last three years Tripadvisor has been awarding a variety of ratings to hotels and destinations.  There are maps on various Tripadvisor applications where you can pin your most visited and favorite destinations. As far as I understand it, these are the source of the information used to make the awards.  Tripadvisor hasn’t made the rules clear, and no doubt one could argue the results, but be that as it may everyone in Cape Town is over the moon.  For this month Tripadvisor named Cape Town as the world's favorite tourist destination for 2011. The competition was fierce.  Here’s the top ten list:

2011 Travelers' Choice World Destinations http://www.tripadvisor.com/TCDestinations

1. Cape Town, South Africa

2. Sydney, Australia

3. Machu Picchu, Peru

4. Paris, France (sorry, Cara)

5. Rio de Janeiro, Brazil (sorry, Leighton)

6. New York City, United States

7. Rome, Italy

8. London, United Kingdom (sorry, Dan)

9. Barcelona, Spain

10. Hong Kong, China

After the great time we had at Bouchercon last year, I would’ve put San Francisco high on the list, but it only made position #23 (sorry again, Cara), way behind New Zealand’s Queenstown (#12), Cambodia’s Siem Riep (#14) and Thailand’s Ko Phi Phi Don (#18) (which I, for one, had never heard of, sorry Tim). (Reykjavik made the top 25 in Europe, Yrsa, so don’t feel completely out of it. You are just behind Ia (Oia) from Greece, which looks worth a blog, Jeff.)

Kirstenbosch national botanical gardens

Of course, we’re talking about tourist destinations not where you’d want to live, but I have to say that Cape Town has a lot going for it on both fronts.  It’s scenically breathtaking, cupped by the Atlantic ocean, has super restaurants, a stunning waterfront shopping and restaurant area, beaches, mountain walks, a game reserve, penguins, and is the capital of one of the world’s most extraordinary floral kingdoms with a glorious botantical garden to show it off.
At Cape Point you can climb to a view point and see the ocean on both sides.  Often visitors comment that they can see the line where the two oceans join.  Unfortunately the official divide is at Cape Agulhas to the South East and the southern tip of the continent.  Still, the oceanographical join is where the Agulhas current meets the Benguela current and that moves between Cape Agulhas and Cape Point, so the visitors are right to keep a look out. 
Then there is the wine country. Some great wineries, like Klein Constantia of Vin de Constance fame, are a stone’s throw from the city, others more discreetly settle themselves in the more rural surroundings of Stellenbosch.   

Klein Constantia

African or Jackass penguins at Boulders

So what’s the catch?  Well, there really isn’t one. Because the city nestles between the mountains and the sea, the routes are limited and traffic can be a problem at rush hour, but Johannesburg – with no similar excuses – is usually much worse.  Then again the city is anything but undiscovered and the locals are laughing all the way to the bank.  But prices aren’t ridiculous. Despite the current and not unsurprising strength of the rand, it's pretty reasonable value.  I stayed at a delightful guest house close to the city center with a room about the size of an ordinary apartment and a breakfast that set me up for the day for the equivalent of $100 a night.

Cape Riviera guest house
with Table Mountain in the background

This time I was only there for two nights; Stan and I had book events at two of the delightful independent bookstores that pepper the city. (I would have liked to write about them, but Stan used up our one free Blatant Self-promotion card in his last post.) But I’ll be back for a longer visit. Anyone want to join me?

Michael - Thursday