Jeff—Saturday
On the surface, you wouldn’t see them as having much in
common. One is fourteen times the size
of the other, with six and a half times the population. It’s also a tropical
rainforest island with low unemployment and a thriving economy, while the
smaller island is a desert landscape oasis amid a country of no-end-in-sight
Great Depression times. And they are separated
from each other by virtually half the circumference of the globe.
One is Kauai, the most undeveloped of Hawaii’s main islands,
the other (of course) is Mykonos, among the most developed of Greece’s Aegean
Cycladic islands.
I’ve never been to Hawaii before, and after a week in
Honolulu at Left Coast Crime, we headed off for five days on Kauai. Quite a difference between those two islands,
though both are beautiful. But Oahu is dominated by a big city, whereas Kauai
seems dominated by the desire not to become one.
We did the touristic things…running all around Kauai to all
the places reachable by car—the Mustang convertible is the rental car of choice
here for good reason (see, sunburned nose).
Kauai truly is a paradise…as the crush of tourists and places catering
to them attest.
I’m not being judgmental on that point, just honest.
Frankly, Mykonos is far more touristic in season than Kauai. Which brings me to the point of this post.
As Barbara and I like to do, we ferretted out local places,
and spoke with locals. We also read the local papers. The result was simple: Compared to our home island of Mykonos, it’s
déjà vu all over again.
The locals are battling developers who “promise” their developments
will not change the basic nature of the island.
They’re also battling commercial interests seeking to establish
mega-ventures in the heart of residential enclaves, notably a huge dairy farm…upwind
of long established homes. Upwind means that the scents embracing your island home
will not be ambrosia carried on trade winds.
To use the phrase I’ve heard (not herd) island lovers mention in describing
the situation, I think “bull shit” sums up both the proposal and aroma
succinctly—even though “cow shit” may be more accurate for a dairy farm.
So, what are the similarities between Kauai and Mykonos?
There are no dairy farms on Mykonos, but there are sewage treatment facilities
and dumps, and continuing debates over both.
There’s also the changing life style phenomenon common to both
islands. Kauai has been discovered by celebrity types…Mark Zuckerberg paying a
reported 100 million dollars for oceanfront property is the most current big
story…and though celebrities living there are nothing new (Pierce Brosnan, Ben
Stiller, Julia Roberts, Bette Midler), it appears everyone believes they can
get equivalent amounts for what they have to sell. Or rent…to tourists and locals alike.
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| Zuckerberg Property |
And once that mentality takes hold—that the dollar or euro
is what matters—those who follow its lead only add to development, desecration,
and despondency of those who truly care for their island.
Perhaps Kauai will be different. After all, it functions
under an American system of laws and has an indigenous people highly motivated
to protect their history, plus a lot of newcomers willing to join in the
battle.
We shall see. After
all, the worst that can happen is Kuaui will begin to look like Oahu. I leave it to you to choose which you prefer.
There’s no right answer.
Oahu.
Kauai.
Bottom line: Different strokes for different folks. And
neither island is likely to give you one. Yes, we’ll be back.
Aloha—as we fly off to NYC today. Or should I say, “Oy vey?”
—Jeff
