Showing posts with label Gaborone. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gaborone. Show all posts

Thursday, November 8, 2018

Police stations we have known

Michael - Thursday

Stan and I have been launching Dead of Night in South Africa, and that often raises questions about settings and sense of place. I talked a bit about out choices here last month. But I'm still wondering how much the setting affects the story and how much is the other way around. Even the police stations have an impact.

Baboons on Kgale Hill
A Carrion Death was set in several places, but Gaborone was the pivot. Kubu hangs out in an office at the the headquarters of the Criminal Investigation Department in the Millennium Park complex west of the city.  Characterless, it's surrounded by parking covered by shade-cloth that loses a daily battle with the sun. It's a newish building and encroaches on the base of Kgale Hill which is about the only bit of topography in the area.  When researching the book, we visited the director of the CID there on a Saturday, but went back for another sortie around the area on Sunday.  We were delighted to see that a troop of baboons had come down from their haunts in the rocky cap of Kgale Hill and taken over the area around the CID. They were sorting through bins and any other items of interest left as the human tide went out for the weekend. It seemed a wonderful metaphor for the juxtaposition of old and new in Africa. One we were not able to resist bringing into the stories. On several occasions Mabaku worries about what they might do to, or on, his car as he looks out of his office window.

The Linyanti where much of our second book takes place

Baobab
The Second Death of Goodluck Tinubu is set up north. The Kasane police station also has an interesting feature. Kasane lies on the confluence of two major rivers – the Chobe and the Zambezi. It's also at the meeting point of four countries – Botswana, Zambia, Namibia and Zimbabwe - clearly not an entirely comfortable location these days. However, the town is thriving with fancy modern hotels overlooking the broad Chobe river and packed with tourists taking trips into the Chobe National Park a short distance away.  Built on the site of the old prison, a modern multi-story building houses the police. The architect took care to design it in such a way that two ancient baobabs could be preserved. Both are hollowed out with once locking doors that allowed prisoners to be held within the tree itself. One tree for the men and one for the women. No more than two in each at a time one hopes! You can climb in, but it’s not a very comfortable or salubrious place to spend any time. We were shown around the inside of the police station - including the modern prison cells - but nothing was as interesting as the baobab prison.

The semi-arid country of the Kalahari  

Ground Hornbill
Our third book, Death of the Mantis, was set in the Kalahari desert part of Botswana, so we made the acquaintance of the police there. As usual they were charming and helpful. Tshane is a small village in the heart of the southern Kalahari. It has neighbours of the same type: Hukuntsi – the “commercial centre” sporting a petrol station and guest house, Lehututu – named after the cry of the Ground Hornbill, and Lokgwabe. The villages are there because of the usually dry salt pans which provide subterranean water. The only police station for the group of villages is at Tshane. Unlike the usual Botswana police building, this is an old style colonial one-story dating back to the days of British rule - the Bechuanaland Protectorate. It has the prime site in town: overlooking one of the salt pans. We were told it is the second oldest permanent police post in Botswana. Obviously someone thought this area would grow. Perhaps the old building survived because it didn’t.

The View from Tshane Police Station

Tsabong police station features in the same book
The next three Kubu books take place in Gaborone, Mochudi, and Ganzi. Dead of Night is set in South Africa, Geneva, and Vietnam. But I must admit that we haven't visited any Vietnamese police stations. Maybe just as well!


Thursday, June 2, 2016

The accidental protagonist and other serendipities


This book-writing business has been a lark from beginning to end.  It happened by mistake and remains serendipitous.

If Michael and I hadn’t seen, in Botswana’s Chobe National Park, a pack of hyenas hunt, kill, and consume a wildebeest in four hours—all of the wildebeest, flesh and bones—we probably would never have thought about writing a mystery. 



Licking the plate after all was gone!
Nothing left for her
Then, it took us more than fifteen years to start writing A CARRION DEATH (which is regarded as borderline impatient in our academic circles), but at least we knew how it was going to start, which saved a few years.  However, we had no idea how it was going to proceed, so we took another three years to finish it, probably throwing away as many words as we kept, because we had no clue what we were doing.  Neither of us had written fiction before—at least not since we were very young.

We were told to write what we knew.  Sounded good, so it was a professor who stumbled across a hyena that had not quite finished dining on a human body.  The professor was smart, in a cool field (ecology), and stood out in comparison to his companion, a game ranger.  He figured out what was going on very quickly, and we were delighted we’d created such a good protagonist.  However, we realised that he couldn’t do everything himself, that we would have to bring a detective from Gaborone to the middle of the Kalahari to do the official  investigation – after all it was a murder.

The only detective who was free that day was Assistant Superintendent David Bengu, sporting what some thought was a rude nickname—Kubu, or hippopotamus in the Setswana language.  And yes, he was big and ponderous.   And dangerous.

Photo: Aron Frankental
So this secondary character jumped into his Land Rover, with sandwiches, something to drink, and various tapes he could sing along with.  Opera tapes.  And the Land Rover was his only stage—and then only when alone—because he was the only person on the planet who thought he had a decent voice.
Kubu faced dangerous animals on the road through the Kalahari.
And as he drove along the sands of the Kalahari, singing lustily, he taught us a lesson we’d never forget.

We thought, as the authors of the book, that we’d be in charge, in control of what happened, and of who did what to whom.

Not so, it turned out.

By the time Kubu had arrived at the camp near where the body had been found, he’d taken over as our main character.  We can just see him, as he was driving, saying to himself: “A professor as protagonist?  Eish!!  No way.  It’s going to me.”

And so it came to pass.  We capitulated immediately, relegating the professor to the background, and Kubu became our accidental protagonist.  To be fair, as Michael always says, we did give him a consolation prize, marrying him off to Kubu’s sister-in-law in a later book.

While writing A CARRION DEATH, we realised we knew nothing about the police or their procedures, at least from the inside, and even less about the Botswana police.  So we started emailing and phoning the Director of the Botswana Criminal Investigation Department (CID) – Director Mulale.  He ignored us.  And continued to ignore us as we continued trying to contact him.  Even his assistant director ignored us.  We felt most put out.  

Eventually we went to Gaborone, Botswana’s capital, to research locations for the book.  When we arrived there one Friday evening, we continued to hound the Director – somehow we’d managed to get hold of his mobile phone.  Eventually, in sheer exasperation, he capitulated, saying “ You’ve worn me out!”  We agreed to meet at noon on the Saturday at our hotel.

Gaborone market outside our hotel
Director Mulale arrived, as tall as Stanley, in jeans, cowboy boots, and a Stetson, and then more than made up for his reticence.  He spent the next six hours driving us all over the area, showing us where various crimes had taken place, where the best drugs were sold, where the police were trained, and where the bad guys were imprisoned. 

Police Training College
Three things stand out about that afternoon.  

First, Director Mulale's friendliness and willingness to share what he knew despite our earlier obnoxious persistence.  

Second, as we drove around, Director Mulale’s mobile kept ringing about a gang of armed South African bank robbers who were in the town of Lobatse, south of Gaborone.  Mulale kept telling his assistant the he was busy with some writers from South Africa and that he, the assistant, should take care of the bad guys.  

And third, during the afternoon, Director Mulale told us that if we wanted to write about something really important, we should write about muti murders – and he told us about the true story of Segametsi Mogamotsi, a young girl who had been abducted, murdered, and various body parts taken for muti or magic potions.  It was on this story that we eventually based DEADLY HARVEST.  He was clearly frustrated by the inability and unwillingness of the police to bring closure to muti-murder cases.

Just released UK edition by Orenda Books
Finally, even though we’d written A CARRION DEATH as a lark—to see whether we could actually write a mystery—we liked it enough to try and get it published.  I was in the States at the time and started sending out query letters to various agents.  Lots of query letters.  Some agents said no; some didn't reply; a few asked us to send more, then said no.  We despaired as all our efforts appeared to be of no avail.

Then, to our great excitement, an agent said she would like to represent us and sent us her contract.  We were very puzzled by it —we didn’t understand it.  There were sections that contradicted each other, sentences that made no sense.  We offered to rewrite the contract, an offer that wasn't well received.  

However, as new authors, we were also VERY keen to get published and were about to sign despite having no idea what the contract meant, when I had dinner with some neighbours.  I told them the saga of the contract, and serendipity intervened once again.  One of the guests said they knew an author I should contact.  To cut a long story short, we soon signed with the writer's agent, who, within a few weeks phoned us to tell us she had a contract with HarperCollins.

HARPERCOLLINS!

“I assume you’re writing a series,” our agent asked.  “Of course,” we replied, never having had the slightest intention of writing a second Kubu book.

“Please email me the synopsis, asap.  Harper's only interested in a series,” she said.  “Of course,” we replied, not having such a thing.

So we scrambled mightily and came up with a synopsis that appeared to satisfy our soon-to-be editor.

Then we signed A TWO-BOOK contract.  Gadzooks!  AND, they were going to give us money up front!  Real money! 




And since then we’ve been part of a mysterious world, filled with contradictions, sometimes frustrations, as well as a great deal of enjoyment. 

And perhaps the most serendipitous outcome of watching those hyenas is that we now hang out with the nicest and most supporting people you will ever meet.  Thank you!


Thursday, August 20, 2015

Another jewel in Botswana

Botswana is home to the two richest diamond mines in the world - Orapa and Jwaneng.  It is these diamonds that have provided the stability for the country, making it the envy of the rest of Africa.

But natural resources run out, sometimes sooner, sometimes later.  What can follow them to prolong the country's stability?

In a different context, Confucius had the answer:  "If your plan is for one year, plant rice. If your plan is for ten years, plant trees. If your plan is for one hundred years, educate children."

My headmaster when I was in high school in Johannesburg was Deane Yates, a man for whom we all felt a modicum of fear.  We called him Blogs.  When he left the school, he went to Gaborone, the capital of Botswana, to found a school to educate the children of Botswana for the future.

Founder Deane Yates with wife Dorothy
He called the school Maru-a-Pula, which means “clouds of rain” or “promises of blessings” in Setswana. Rarely are schools so aptly named.


Built on twenty hectares of land given to the school by the President of Botswana, Sir Seretse Khama, it is truly a gem, not only in Botswana, but throughout Africa.  Rather than listing its amazing results here, I direct you to its website.

What I want to tell you about is the impression it has left on me on various visits over the past ten years.

First, having come from racially segregated South Africa and having lived in a so-called integrated USA, I've never been to a school where people of different backgrounds don't let the differences get in the way.  Whether staff or students, people are not White, Black, etc., they are people  The school shows what could be, given an environment where differences are valued and not denigrated.

3 of 15 finalists for the Southern African De Beers English Olympiad
came from Maru-a-Pula: Nandini Kochar, Tawanda Mulalu and Vamika Sinha
Second, it is one of the few schools I've ever been to where the students would rather be at school rather than elsewhere.  There is a potent happiness as one walks around.  Staff and students are enjoying themselves.

Third, like the school I attended, St.John's College, an emphasis is placed on producing graduates with a rounded background.  Music, sport, community service are required, as well as commitment to studying.  Maru-a-Pula's website tells you of the academic success it has, as well as the marimba band that has toured the world (click here to listen to the kids playing and really enjoying themselves in California), the remarkable annual festival of music - Maitisong, and the sporting achievements. 


The Marimba Band

The 2012 Marimba Band

Student art projects are displayed around campus
Art is displayed on many walls - outside for all to see
Maru-a-Pul is proud to be African
New books in the library

Maru-a-Pula gets support from many sources

Chemistry Lab

Fourth, the school is a place of beauty, not the beauty that one dreams about, but a beauty appropriate to an arid climate.  People who live where there is little water will approve that every building has large water-storage barrels catching the rare rainwater that comes of the roofs.  There is little grass and, like Kubu's garden at home, a lot of succulents.




Finally, I knew Deane Yates, the founder, and David Matthews, Maru-a-Pula's second headmaster, who also taught me in high school.  And since writing about Botswana in the Detective Kubu series, I have got to know the current principal, Andy Taylor, an American by birth and a citizen of the world.  He has so impressed me in different ways:  his commitment to a rounded education being the necessary basis of good governance and democracy; his willingness to open doors for us and introduce us to some of Botswana's remarkable people; and his friendship and hospitality. Michael feels the same about him, so we dedicated A Death in the Family to him.

Headmaster Andy Taylor
Every writers motto - on the wall of Andy Taylor's office:
No day without a line!
I can only urge all our readers to visit Botswana, not only for the spectacular wildlife and friendly people, but also for its natural resources.  Unfortunately diamonds are not cheaper in Botswana, but the natural resources at Maru-a-Pula are much more valuable.    

Stan - Thursday



Thursday, April 16, 2015

The surprise of deserts

Michael and I have just returned from a trip to the Kalahari desert, where we had research to do for the Detective Kubu mystery that we are currently writing.  (It is still without title.)

Ever since I visited a desert for the first time, over forty years ago, I have been fascinated by them and the things, flora and fauna, that live in there.  A trip to a desert is always the time for a surprise. 

In fact, our Detective Kubu would never have become a detective had his childhood friend, the Bushman Khumanego, not taken him into the Kalahari and exposed the hidden worlds that live there.  The following excerpt from A CARRION DEATH tells that story.

Kubu owed the Bushmen a debt of gratitude.  His childhood Bushman friend, Khumanego, had shown him how the desert was alive, not dead as he had thought.  He remembered vividly how in one school holiday Khumanego had taken him sweltering kilometres into the arid landscape and drawn a circle in the sand a few metres in diameter.

“What do you see?” Khumanego had asked him.

“Sand, stones, and some dry grass.  That’s all,” he had replied.

Khumanego shook his head gently.  “Black men!” he chided.  “Look again.”

“I see sand and stones, some small and others a little bigger.  Also some dry grass.”

An hour later the world had changed for Kubu.  Khumanego had shown him how to look beyond the obvious, how to explore below the surface, to notice what no one else would see.  In that small circle thrived a teeming world - ants, plants that looked like stones (lithops, he found out later), beetles, and spiders.  He loved the lithops – desert plants cunningly disguised as rocks, almost impossible to distinguish from the real things.  They blended into their surroundings, pretending to be what they were not. 

The trapdoor spider also impressed him.  When he looked carefully at the sand, almost imperceptible traces of activity clustered around one area.  On his knees, Khumanego pointed to the barely visible crescent in the sand.  He gestured to Kubu to pick up a twig and pry the trapdoor open.  Kubu complied, nervous of what he would find.  The open trapdoor revealed a tunnel, the size and length of a pencil, made from grains of sand and some substance holding them together.  Khumanego tapped the tube.  A small white spider scurried out and stopped on the hot sand.



“This spider,” Khumanego whispered, “knows the desert.  He digs a hole and makes walls of sand with his web.  He makes his home under the sand where it is not so hot.  He listens and listens, and when he hears footsteps on the sand, he opens the door, jumps out, catches his meal, and brings it back to his home – appearing and disappearing before the insect knows what is happening.  Very clever spider.  You don’t know that he is there, but he is very dangerous.”

Kubu thought that the spider and the lithops survived in the same way – avoiding attention by blending into the background.

It was the experience of seeing so much when there was so little to see that had the greatest impact.  Khumanego had taught him to open his eyes and see what was in front of him.  “Black people don’t see,” Khumanego had said.  “White people don’t want to.”  Kubu returned home that afternoon and vowed he would never be blind again.  From that day, Kubu had trained himself to be observant, to see what others did not and to look beyond the obvious. 

[As an aside, I am not known for my green thumb.  When I first saw lithops, I recognized their potential.  So I smuggled some into the States, planted them on a bed of stones in my home in Illinois, and proudly showed them off to my friends, who were suitably impressed.  When the lithops inevitably joined all my previous plants in flora heaven, I continued to display the planter of stones, and my friends continued to be impressed.]




Southern Africa has two deserts: the Kalahari, covering much of Botswana and stretching into northern South Africa and eastern Namibia; and the Namib, which covers most of western Namibia, along the Atlantic Ocean.  I’ve been fortunate to visit both in the last month.



In general, these two deserts are quite different.  The Kalahari comprises vast areas of sand, low scrub, and a few trees, whereas the Namib often fits the more traditional view of deserts, with even sparser vegetation and sand, sand, and more sand.

Kalahari

Kalahari

Sossusvlei dunes in the Namib

If you want to drive in the Namib, you'd better know how!

The oryx (gemsbok) needs little water to survive.

The single purpose of our trip was to visit a village in the central Kalahari called New Xade, near to which a Bushman called Kabbo, in our sixth novel, was found dead on the side of the road.  An autopsy revealed three surprising things: he was probably well over a hundred years old, closer to one hundred and fifty; his internal organs were the same as a man of forty; and third, a bullet was lodged in an abdominal muscle, but there was no entry wound.

We wanted to visit the area to ensure what we wrote about where Kabbo lived and roamed was accurate.  And we wanted to see if we could find what Kabbo had been eating that made him live so long.

We were also eager to visit New Xade because it is the focal point of a great deal of antagonism between the Bushmen and the Botswana government.  The government argues that it has a constitutional requirement to provide education and healthcare to all of the citizens of Botswana, but it is impossible to do this if the Bushmen maintain their nomadic lifestyle.  So it resettled many Bushmen from their traditional areas around the village of Xade in the Central Kalahari Game Reserve to the village of New Xade, seventy kilometers to the west.  New Xade, the government claims, provides the required schooling and healthcare, and is a far better place to be in contrast with roaming the desert, not knowing where or when food and water would be found.

Initially, we drove the five hours from Johannesburg to Gaborone, where we spent the night.  Then we took the paved, Trans-Kalahari Highway for seven hours, avoiding the cows, donkey, horses, goats and sheep that favour the firm footing afforded by a paved surface and the lush grass that grows at its edge to the safer pastures away from the road.  Obviously some drivers were not nimble in avoiding animals, as we saw cattle carcasses and a few abandoned vehicles.  Eventually we reached Ghanzi, not far from the Namibian border, and over-nighted there.  Finally, the next day, we drove the 100 kilometres on a white, calcite sand road to New Xade.

Donkeys are better
This probably hit a cow at night
Fortunately the ostriches preferred the bush.

The road to New Xade

And true to form, the desert provided some surprises.

First, instead of being dry, parched, and inhospitable, the Kalahari was green and lush as far as the eye could see, with grass growing tall on the side of the road and fields of yellow flowers adorning the landscape.  In many places, pools of water lay next to the road, extending back into the bush.  We were told that the area had received two-thirds of its annual rainfall in two days the previous week – over 200 mm (8 inches) in thirty-six hours.  Villages had been flooded; and rivers flowed that were normally sandy courses meandering through the scrub.

The Kalahari desert!
Kalahari desert 2
Flooded village

Suddenly there were flowers

New Xade was also a surprise, but not a pleasant one.  To call it a dump would be paying it a compliment.  The only things that may have been working were the school – but we couldn’t really tell, as it was school holidays – and the clinic.  But all the other buildings of substance stood empty and derelict.  Most of the homes were in poor repair, and people were sitting around doing nothing (alcoholism is reputed to be rife).  We saw no shops, and the bill-boarded craft shop didn’t look as though it had been opened in ages.  The government may have met its constitutional requirement, but it doesn’t seem to be interested in the welfare of the people it has moved there.  Michael and I were both bummed out - and sad, very sad, at what we'd seen.

New Xade craft shop - looked unused

New Xade pedestrian

New Xade children at play

New Xade residence

Top-of-the-line New Xade residence

Another top-of-the-line New Xade residence - there were only a few

Not top-of-the-lineNew Xade residence
Another not top-of-the-line New Xade residence

Traffic warning

Overall, our research trip was a success, even though we didn’t find Kabbo’s secret plant.  We learned something new; we didn’t hit an animal on the road; and we saw the Kalahari in a once-in-our-lifetime finery.


Stan - Thursday