Usually, it's a very busy week for me, a 'trying to be everywhere at once' type of week. But thankfully the gods were looking after me this year. I wasn't keen on wandering too far away from home.
My big gig was on Monday night.
An actual Ghillie Dhu
Ian, you might have heard of before, he is one of those Scottish Crime writer
chappies.
Mark is an award winning chef. I hesitate to use the words 'celebrity chef' as he would hate that expression, he is an unassuming guy, very passionate about food and about Scottish food and local produce. He knows all kinds of things, and talks in that lovely way that really enthusiastic people do - suddenly I was immersed in a world where I couldn't speak the language.
I have spent my life doing the wrong thing with a mandolin.
Mark is an award winning chef. I hesitate to use the words 'celebrity chef' as he would hate that expression, he is an unassuming guy, very passionate about food and about Scottish food and local produce. He knows all kinds of things, and talks in that lovely way that really enthusiastic people do - suddenly I was immersed in a world where I couldn't speak the language.
I have spent my life doing the wrong thing with a mandolin.
Both these above are mandolins!
Never mind the stuff you can get up to with an espuma gun!
Mark, ready top create!
Mark has written a beautiful cookery book called 'Perceptions', about Scottish cooking and how it is perceived abroad. ( not very well as far as he is concerned.) He is keen to get away from the ‘sick
old man of Europe image that Scots have with their diet – highest rate of all
kinds of diet related diseases. The consumption of deep fried mars bar and deep fried square sausage really rockets the cholesterol. Mark wants to explore the fantastic recipes that can be created from the flora and fauna of this country- and we have plenty to be proud of. In the book he explains how the low level of sunshine and the high water table ( rain) means that everything takes time to mature, and therefore the flavour is deeper and richer.
Then he puts a twist on the recipe, and then another twist
on that.
As well as being packed with recipes and how to this and how
to that without getting your fingers cut - especially with a oyster knife as oysters carry and very nasty type of bacteria and the cut, nestling in the skin fold between thumb, very often gets left to fester into a full blown septicaemia - Mark also writes about his career as a chef, right from the first day
when he sank his arms into the sink as a kitchen porter… and was still there
twelve hours later.
No matter how deep the conversation went culinary, it always reverted to death and murder. 'Oh Mark, I do like the way you serve fresh prawns in a bowl of solid ice. A lethal weapon if ever there was one.'
me, mouth open, in charge!
I am a bit weird ( full stop ) food
wise. It's a source of fuel, not an entertainment, I do not like animals being degraded so that
we can eat them ( a view that
most farmers and those involved in commercial animal welfare tend to agree with ) . I can't stand chefs
like Heston Blumenthal.. sticking spikes through mice and making a Christmas tree out of them...well I think that is what he was doing.
cooking squirrels!
cooking squirrels!
But Mark is not like
that, he knows exactly where every animal he cooks has come from, exactly. He knows where every vegetable, every herb has been grown. he has cultivated ( pardon the pun) family farms to supply his kitchens, some of those farms are run as social placement units for the vulnerable in society, to give them skills and trade, just help them get back on their feet.
There is non point in asking him for something out of season if it is out of season, if it's not fresh then you won't get it.
There is non point in asking him for something out of season if it is out of season, if it's not fresh then you won't get it.
I asked him all kinds
of incisive questions , like OK if you are such as expert on Scottish cookery, why
are there no recipes with Irn Bru? Then
Ian came up with his irn bru recipe… a glass of irn bru with a vanilla ice cream floater and then grated Mars bar on top of that.
The inner cover of the Perceptions cook book is full of his original notebooks, all stained and squiggled.
The inner cover of the Perceptions cook book is full of his original notebooks, all stained and squiggled.
I asked both of them
what they would do with a mandolin? Play the instrumental bit on the middle of
Maggie May or slice tomatoes finely, If you answered both, you may go to the
top of the class.
No questions were off
limits, What is the point of celery I asked him. He struggled to come up with
an answer. Ian suggested you can put it in a bloody Mary. I explained how a
bloody Mary can provide 4 of the British government's five fruit/veg a day recommendation…
( lemon, potato, marmite, tomato—easy!)
Mark getting on the bus, me in the queue
Mark getting on the bus, me in the queue
The bit I found really
interesting was where he talks about the creation of a new recipe – works of
art in his case.
He takes inspiration from everywhere – a starting point, an idea, something else he has seen , eaten… something he had read, saw on the net.. and it all mish mashes about in the back of his mind and he tries this, he tries that. It might be right, it might be nearly right. Then his team of chefs look at it and suggest improvements …. And finally after many, many attempts – a new dish is born.
And he talks about it in exactly the same terms and with the same passion that a novelist talks about their plotting process. I think Mark starts a new creation as a plotter, but in reality is a panster!
There was a sense of slaving away them stumbling on something rather marvellous.
He takes inspiration from everywhere – a starting point, an idea, something else he has seen , eaten… something he had read, saw on the net.. and it all mish mashes about in the back of his mind and he tries this, he tries that. It might be right, it might be nearly right. Then his team of chefs look at it and suggest improvements …. And finally after many, many attempts – a new dish is born.
And he talks about it in exactly the same terms and with the same passion that a novelist talks about their plotting process. I think Mark starts a new creation as a plotter, but in reality is a panster!
There was a sense of slaving away them stumbling on something rather marvellous.
The book is beautiful, full of lovely photographs by Paul Johnson, I would have liked to have interviewed him
about the ways and means of photographing food like that.
Mark at the front, me at the side.
And no, that's not eggs in the egg box. That would be far too simple.
Caro Ramsay 25 11 2016
Cook me a merder 'und Ah'll serv'ya a boody.
ReplyDeleteYou know, I really miss irn bru. Though, call me a nut, but I'm not quite sure how it goes with squirrel.
ReplyDelete