Saturday, May 28, 2016

Bars Have Rites Too.


Jeff—Saturday

They say good things run in threes.  Bad things too.  Though Native Americans use four as their magic number and Chinese five.

All of which gave me pause to mention CrimeFest so close behind Michael’s and Caro’s posts, but what choice do I have?  I want to know what happened at its bar scene!  My fondest memories of Bristol are of Icelandic culinary treasures on the order (and crowd-scattering odor) of kæstur hákarl smuggled into the UK by Agent Yrsa and freely shared amid strong drink with willing Viking wannabes, and the deadpan comments of Toby (of Bill and Toby Gottfried fame). How I miss the inebriated vitality of it all.


Come to think of it, I miss that aspect of the bar life everywhere I go, because I stopped drinking three years ago.  Nah, this isn’t an AA sort of confessional piece, because my reason for stopping had nothing to do with anything other than avoiding the curse of Mykonos-life: 24/7 booze.  It’s a way of life here, from tsipouro in the morning with a fisherman to shots at a bar in the wee hours with the bar’s owner, it’s all part of island camaraderie. And to refuse is an insult…unless you don’t drink.


But by no means have I stopped going to the island’s bars. They’re what drive this place and its reputation, and are fertile sources of research for my work. More so now that I can scribble down notes in handwriting I’ll actually be able to read later on.

In fact, I’m honored to say many places now stock non-alcoholic beer, undoubtedly in an effort to buoy up their bottom line from the fiscal disaster of my decision.


Bars and clubs are an intrinsic part of life on this island, and though few have licenses that allow them to carry on the businesses they actually run, they survive through a Blanche Dubois “kindness of strangers” relationship with the municipal authorities.  And on those rare occasions where a particular establishment so offends the polity that action is demanded, an elaborate, stylized drama and dance (think Grand Kabuki theater) ensues involving a ceremonious yanking of the license by the town hall, followed by a prompt race off to court by the owners to stay enforcement of the yanking until some “future time,” which is inevitably after the tourist season ends, leaving the courts to blame for a more-things-change-the-more-they-remain-the-same result.  By the way, did I mention that lawyers in Greece have been on strike for nearly half-a-year?


Maybe sobriety isn’t the answer?

Anyway, I have my favorite places on this island in which to spend my time and others where I find the sorts of characters few believe exist in real life…outside of supervised captivity. However, in light of the context of this post I don’t want to mention any names of places or folks, as their mention might be misconstrued.  Suffice it to say that Mykonos has successfully established itself as an island unlike any other.  Its draw is worldwide and its nighttime scene ever expanding—both as to time and space.  And it’s only May.


—Jeff

10 comments:

  1. I see you guys in the mirror, Barbara being more shy than usual. Not having to sample kæstur hákarl sounds like a perfectly good reason to give up drinking...

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  2. No hiding from Eagle-Eye EvKa! On the hákuri front, the odor is so overwhelming I understand airline passengers are barred from opening a sealed package of it on a plane. I wonder if there are shark scanners at Reykjavik airport?

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  3. Jeff has the amazing ability to be the life of the party EVEN WITHOUT ALCOHOL! Perhaps he doesn't need alcohol to get drunk? Some peculiar metabolic feature?
    Anyway the bar at Crimefest was well stocked with people and drinks, but you were missed, my friend!

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    1. I think that was a compliment, Michael. :) Next year, with all my official Bouchercon obligations out of the way, I'm hoping to be back in the full metabolic swing of things with all the old crew.

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  4. J, have you given up being the Boss of Bouchercon? That was one of the many ways in which you have been irreplaceable, Bro.

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  5. I have never been "The Boss of Bouchercon," Sis, just one of many working for nearly half a century toward the common good of our genre's many fans.

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    1. I was being facetious. And you are being modest.

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    2. You're far too kind...and one of a kind. :)

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  6. Your post (like so many of them) makes me want to visit Mykonos - I'm not much of a drinker, but I love places that have unique culture of any kind.

    Also, I'm with Annamaria - without taking away from anyone else's efforts (and there are many people who work very hard to make Bouchercon successful every year) - you deserve kudos for your success and hard work herding the crime-fiction cats. :)

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    1. Geez, Susan, you have me blushing so deeply I'm afraid I qualify to sit by the coral in your fabulous aquarium.

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