Thursday, January 28, 2016

Kia ora from paradise

Stanley - Thursday

I was going to write a travelog this week about my last three weeks, all spent in New Zealand.  However, this morning the plans changed.  As we left our AirBnB in Queenstown on the South Island, a previous client popped in to pick up a raincoat he'd left there.  He asked where we were headed and, when I said Glenorchy at the end of Lake Wakatipu, he suggested we stop on the way at a little piece of paradise.

We did.

And were blown away.

The Little Paradise Lodge sits on he 45th parallel, equidistant from the equator and the South Pole, and a long way from anywhere.  (Click on any photo to enlarge it.)




The 25 cms represents the amount of space every South African would have if standing in a row from here to Pretoria; the 95 cms is the amount of space they would have if standing next to each other around the world. 

It is unobtrusively located next to Highway 6 from Queenstown, but the moment you leave the car, you realise that this is something special.

Lonely Planet has this to say:
Rambling and rustic doesn't begin to describe this unique spot perched by Lake Wakatipu. A quirky and slightly eccentric Swiss guy built it all by himself, from the handmade wooden furniture to the uniquely tiled bathrooms. Outside there's a natural swimming pool and various bird life roaming about to keep you company.
Wonderfully eclectic, this slice of arty paradise is the singular vision of the current owner. 

 In reality, words cannot describe the two or so hectares that comprise the gardens - streams and ponds surrounded by 3,000 roses, 40,000 daffodils, thousands of lilies, a variety of weird and wonderful plants, as well as interesting and quirky sculptures, mainly in yoga poses.

So let's dispense with words and use pictures.





The hanging strands are stone covered string 





Reception at the Lodge







The Moa and Haast's eagle are both extinct.
























I guess Blogspot just ran out of storage space - I'll post a second blog for the rest of the photos.

Kia ora 2

Here are the rest of the photographs from Little Paradise Lodge, near Queenstown, New Zealand.  Click on any photo to enlarge.

Stanley - Thursday



















Wednesday, January 27, 2016

Hawaii Journal Part One


Sujata Massey

I shouldn't be in Hawaii right now, watching the waves roll in and basking in sunshine.
The only reason I'm here is because I’m a worrier. 

In 2014, I began the application process for an artistic residency at the Iolani School  in Honolulu. I worried I wasn't going to be able to pull myself away from my household--even though the event was two years away. I applied because I thought I couldn't possibly be chosen. But after several months I was surprised by the exciting news I had been chosen as the Keables chair holder and would travel to teach writing workshops to students for two weeks in the winter of 2016. With more than a year to go, it wasn’t hard to plan out the classes, think about what I'd do for the Community Night Public Lecture, assemblies and other events. The school bought my airline ticket five months in advance and booked a two-week stay at a nearby hotel. 

Dwarfed by the palms at Foster Gardens

About week before my departure, my worrying spiked. Forecasters were predicting a massive snowstorm for Maryland and Washington, D.C. I had the sinking feeling the snow would ruin the carefully laid plans. And if my flight was cancelled, how long would it be till I found a seat on another one? How many classes and Waikiki sunsets would I miss?

Such worries led me to constantly keep checking with American Airlines the whole week. And then, on a Wednesday, I saw a "travel advisory" pop up button on the airline's homepage that offered a chance to rebook flights for no charge. I recklessly nabbed a seat on the last flight with any space to Hawaii--which left two days before my scheduled flight on Saturday, Jan. 24. My school contact fixed the hotel reservation so I could check in as soon as I arrived. I started to feel better.


On my right is Jackie, a longtime reader and Iolani School staffer who nominated me for the artistic residency


I arrived in Honolulu on Thursday evening and had a quick sushi dinner by myself on buzzy Kalakaua Boulevard before crashing. When I rang my husband the next day, he turned was quick to show pictures of the snowstorm. After we said goodbye, I stared at the waves from my hotel balcony and contemplated the power of nature, for better or worse.

That day I fought jet lag by exploring Waikiki in all directions. I went to dinner with Jackie and Ryan, who picked a great Cantonese restaurant. I ate beyond my usual capacity at a wonderful Cantonese restaurant in the Kaimuki neighborhood called Duk Kee, where I tasted a stir-fry of Chinese New Year’s vegetables.


Duk Kee's owner Cammy talking food with Jackie's son, Ryan Oda, a realtor and Iolani graduate


The next day, my mystery convention buddies Marji and Hank who now live full-time in Honolulu brought me to Foster Gardens, a historic botanical garden, where I marveled at trees both huge and small. The palm below was barely ten feet tall after 150 years of growth. Sometimes, writing a novel feels about that slow!







I was pleased to see that Honolulu residents were growing vegetables in personal plots set up on Foster Gardens grounds. I saw a lot of kale, ginger, and chilies and began imagining how to mix them.



Marji and Hank also brought me to see Honolulu from an excellent vantage point on Sand Island below. A high rise building surge is on. Unfortunately, the new condos are priced for overseas investors, not local people. Not that it was a surprise.








Table views at La Mariana Sailing Club 


We rounded out the night with mai-tais and dinner at La Mariana Sailing Club, a delightful open-air restaurant on a marina filled with sail boats. This hideaway is styled the way it’s always been since its founding by the famous Mariana in 1957. It's built with with vintage carved tiki and rattan furniture and glowing colored lanterns in the shapes of pufferfish. The menu contains fish, pasta, and other classic indulgences cooked to perfection. It was too dark to get good photos of the interior, so you'll have to be content with the above view of the marina.

The hilly garden at Spalding House


On the mellow Sunday that followed, my friend Liz and I visited two locations of the Honolulu Museum of Art. First was the Spalding House in Makiki Heights. This small contemporary art museum has a glorious, rambling garden and an excellent café. 

After losing ourselves in the garden, we continued along to Honolulu Museum’s main building. Because this is my fourth time visiting Honolulu, this museum is well-known to me. However, the Japanese decorative arts collection is so huge I'm always entranced by something new. This time, I was captivated by  beautiful painted Japanese screens from the Showa period (1920s and 30s) in immaculate condition. And I was impressed by a brilliantly curated exhibit of  21st century fashion worn by young people in Tokyo’s trendy Harajuku neighborhood. For the last fifteen years or so, designers in Japan have catered to teenage style-setters with astounding dresses riffing on commercial stuffed animals, fairies, Alice in Wonderland, Gothic horror, steam punk, and Elizabethan England. Another museum-goer who was into Cos-Play told me the retail price for one of these modern masterpieces was $700-$800. Wow! 

A very spooky rabbit mannequin in a omantic Harajuku fashion

After viewing the fanciful outfits, I had a brief desire to be eighteen again. But then I remembered that Japanese and Hawaiian culture weren’t part of my mental landscape then. I wouldn’t know what Gothic Lolita meant and if you served me sushi, I would have run from the table.

Glorious Spalding House museum garden



Sometimes it takes years to arrive at the places you're meant to go. And after such a highly relaxed weekend, I'm ready to start school.  More about that two weeks from now, in Hawaii Journal Part 2.

Tuesday, January 26, 2016

Paris and France from above

If you're headed to France this week it might get rough. It's that time of year and several strikes are happening. Here's a way to go above all that in these amazing satellite photos from the French national institute of geographic and forestry information. The Iron Lady casts a long shadow.
Visit the Louvre from above
Mont St. Michel and not even get your feet wet Versailles without the lines!
If you go remember the air traffic controllers are scheduled to strike so check on flights, Uber has again riled up the Paris taxi drivers so they might be burning tires again, the farmers are steamed up and there could be a tractor barricade. Vive la France Cara - Tuesday

Sunday, January 24, 2016

The End of An Era: Remembering George Weidenfeld (13 September 1919 – 20 January 2016)


This week I have stepped aside from my usual blogging day to hand over this page to fellow writer John Lawton. He worked with the late George Weidenfeld, who died this week, both as an agent and as an author, and knew him over the course of many years.


It isn’t often one gets to write ‘it’s the end of an era’ and have it rise above cliché. George Weidenfeld’s death is just that – he was the last of those innovative influential Jewish refugees from Nazi Germany who stayed on in peacetime to found publishing houses and reshape literary London. Off the top of my head … André Deutsch – from Hungary – Paul Hamlyn – from Germany – Walter Neurath – from Austria. Houses like André Deutsch, Paul Hamlyn, Weidenfeld & Nicolson and Thames and Hudson became pre-eminent in a very short time.

George was Austrian, like Walter Neurath he was Viennese, but from a younger generation. He was born in 1919. He was known as Arthur, and nicknamed Turli. I have always assumed that he decided to use his second name after his arrival in England in 1938 as it sounded very English.

I have a vivid memory of first meeting him. It was 1985. I was a young literary agent in London — publishers and agents were forever in and out of each other’s offices. A visit to or from a publisher was no great shakes. It was the routine. Until the day the boss announced that George Weidenfeld would be visiting. The significance of this was lost on me, and it slowly dawned on me that we were being put on full alert, to expect something like the trooping of the colour.

George was already a peer of the realm, and even before that he’d been Sir George — he told me somewhat later that he owed his advancement to Harold Wilson, whom he published, and that loyalty to Wilson kept him on the Labour benches until Wilson’s resignation a few weeks after George’s ennoblement, when he moved to a happier spot on the cross-benches.

The visit was almost regal. I lost track of the number of staff members who accompanied him, they seemed to take up half the boardroom, and I remember thinking that his suit probably cost more than I earned in three months. I don’t think I was supposed to say anything, and that overworked word ‘awesome’ might just have stopped me. I’d been hearing about this man for years — without too much exaggeration, in the mid-sixties anyone who was anyone was published by Weidenfeld and Nicolson — reading about him too as he was the frequent butt of Private Eye’s jokes as ‘Popeye Weidenfeld’ — years later he explained this to me ... he had indeed had an eyeball detach itself from its socket, an injury that looks far more gruesome than it really is — but what amazed me was that he never pulled the W&N adverts in the front pages of the Eye … the reading of my adolescence was to some extent shaped by looking in the library for the books George advertised in the Eye … and in this I could see a man not driven by any resentment. He was a generous soul.

Was I supposed not to speak? I don’t really know. But the point of the meeting was to enable George to do what George did best — to put his ideas for books together with the right writers. He was not a hands-on nuts’n’bolts editor, he was above all an ideas man. One of these ideas was (imagine if you will the Viennese accent he never lost and a faint lisp) : “I realise there has never been a good reworking of the Iliad for adults. Good translations yes, good reworkings too, but always aimed at younger readers.”

Like a schoolboy I put my hand up and caught his eye, stopped his flow for a moment, and told him I represented the poet Elizabeth Cook — the younger sister of the owner of Private Eye, but I thought better of telling him that. It was tad short of ‘Please sir, she can do this.’

Over the next few weeks we exchanged letters on this, I visited him in his office, over the far-from-regal Job Centre and the dole queues in Clapham High Street, and George agreed to pay Elizabeth for a specimen chapter. In the end he did not commission the book, but a good idea does not die so readily, Elizabeth finally published Achilles in 2001, to great acclaim.

I don’t think I saw anything of Lord Weidenfeld for another five years. By this time I was at Channel 4, and a note came down from Michael Grade, saying that George had an idea for a ‘talk’, and as I produced a talks programme …

I called George. He invited me to lunch at the Lords. My one suit dusted off and my tennis shoes freshly scrubbed. I left the Lords with an invitation to be published by Weidenfeld and Nicolson, and an embryonic programme. The talk was about international co-operation between universities and the setting up of a committee for this and that. This was what George did, he hobnobbed, hobnobbed positively, in the interest of international co-operation — a list of the great and the good and the not-so-good with whom George had rubbed shoulders would be little short of infinite. It might be that he was a snob, but I’d defend him on that score by saying that if so it was an all-inclusive snobbery and that if he appeared to drop the name of the Israeli Prime Minister or the German Chancellor, then he managed also to impart the feeling, the pleasing illusion, that in some other conversation he was probably dropping your name too.

Getting the script right meant several visits to his apartment in Cheyne Walk, pretty well opposite the Battersea Buddha — ‘flat’ will not suffice, this was a horizontal mansion. I was fascinated by doors that blended into the wall seamlessly, like the one in the Oval Office, delighted to find he had the most luxuriously deep armchairs imaginable in which to sit and read. (On Desert Island Discs, his luxury was to be able to take an armchair like that with him. I’m still looking for one.) And in the course of a dozen conversations, I learnt of his childhood in Vienna and made mental notes as fast as mind would permit. Much of what he told me eventually went into novels George published — I ripped off his account of the Nazis entering Vienna … a scene in which Jews scrub pavements is based closely on something that had happened to George in 1938, and I ‘gave’ the Chelsea apartment to my character Viktor Rosen. George was also very informative about the plight of Jewish refugees in England — he was lucky to escape internment himself, and spent part of the war at the BBC, making propaganda programmes alongside William Empson and George Orwell, and I now wish I’d asked him if he’d ever had Guy Burgess as his producer. I’d put money on it.

Some time later George was a guest of honour at the Cheltenham festival, and asked me to be his interviewer. I took the line that he was the first ‘Cold War’ publisher, with which he agreed, dealt, inevitably, with his publishing Nabokov’s Lolita at a time when it was drenched in controversy … but otherwise, I cocked it up. I wanted to bring home to the audience the singular quality of Weidenfeld and Nicolson’s list, how brightly it had shone, particularly in the 1950s and 60s, and I failed to do it. I hope that anyone in the audience learnt more from the reminiscences of the interviewee than they did from the ineptitude of the interviewer.

I last saw George at Ion Trewin’s retirement do, not far from his home, in Chelsea Physik Garden. That must have been eight or nine years ago. George was coming up to ninety and looking frail. At Ion’s memorial service late last year I enquired after George and was told he was, predictably, frailer still and in that oft-used phrase, ‘didn’t get out much anymore.’ But when he did … what a difference the man had made, the life of George Weidenfeld is part of the history of the Twentieth Century. London, and London publishing, has lost a giant.

And I’m still looking for one of his desert island armchairs.