Loch
Awe is rather awesome. Once, as a
schoolchild canoed all the way down it. It was the week before Christmas.
I don’t think my thumbs have
ever recovered.
It’s a nice part of the
world, but a bit where most people pass through. Because of the logistics of
the Loch Lomond road, most people in
olden times (pre 1870) would go up to Stirling and then cut across
the top of Loch Lomond to get to Oban and that part of the west coast. We are
not talking great distances here.
Normally the Loch road is one
hour thirty minutes from our front door to the campsite. Via Stirling, it’s two
hours but no where near as much fun.
Occupied dwellings started
to appear along the Dalmallty/Taynuilt
in the later parts of the 1800’s.
And what has that got to do
with the price of cheese, I hear you ask.
The church of last week’s
blog sits on this road. It’s plain façade to the front, the ornamental beauty of it looks out over the
water.
And, as I hinted, it may
look very old, the air is certainly heavy with antiquity and worship. It was only dedicated as a church in 1930.
The south terrace has the
sundial, and the view from that exact point, unspoiled up and down the loch –
the guide book says unspoiled and it’s true. It’s also true that often you
can’t see your hand in front of your face. On my school canoe trip ( character
building ), the fog came down so thick
and fast we had to raft up, and had be
rescued – towed by a boat with that really sensible thing, an engine. We had wetsuits on so weren’t really in
danger of extreme hypothermia… just the mild variety.
Anyway, somebody standing on
the spot where the sundial is now decided to build the church exactly there. On
a fine day, there’s a lot to see from this spot. Ben Lui lies beyond Kilchurn
Castle. It tends to have a wee hat of snow for more than half the year.
As the church stands now,
there’s a statue of St Conan himself, enjoying that self same view.
Glen Lochy, Orchy and Strae
are all visible. On a clear day when the
moon aligns with aquarius an there’s a z in the month.
There are three very small dark islands
visible from that point. Innishail ( Green Isle) was the burial ground for the
people of Loch Awe. Another was the base of the MacNaughton Clan. The third, muchcloser to the
shore is Innischonain which belonged to
the Campbell clan at some time. It was that family who decided to build St
Conan’s Kirk.
The legend says that lived
in Glen Orchy, and was a follower of St Columba. He tutored the two young princes
of Scotland.
Why do I sense the setting for one rip roarer of a mystery in the offing? And, yes, I fondly remember that road from Stirling up to Oban.
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