Saturday, October 24, 2015

How Did Your Summer Go?

Itinerant Troubadours

Jeff—Saturday

Much more of this past summer than I’d like has been consumed with getting my farm back in shape after ten summers of blissfully ignoring it in favor of my life on Mykonos.  But ultimately the piper must be paid…along with carpenters, masons, plumbers, electricians, and plumbers.  So this summer was the time.  So far so good. Only a bit of roof work on the house, gutter clearing and overhanging tree limb trimming on the barn left to do on the buildings.  I’ll attack the overgrown tree farm this winter.   Whew.


I need a vacation. I think I’ll head west on book tour. In fact by the time this posts I’ll be in LA preparing to kick off four sessions with Tim Hallinan in Orange Country, San Diego, Portland and Seattle (Orange and San Diego will be a trio with Martin Limon) and then back to the farm for a week before I’m off again to Denver, Tucson, Scottsdale and Houston.

Martin Limon, Tim Hallinan, Barbara Peters

Here are a few photos of what I’m leaving behind.

The neighborhood

Across the Road

Up the Road

Across the pond--It's Oban, Scotland, just to keep you on your toes
The barn





The house




The colors of Fall in the country











And yes, this whole post strikes me as a poor excuse for one of those, “So what did you do on your summer vacation” compositions grade schoolers are asked to do every Fall.  I think I’d fail with this one.  So, for extra credit, permit me to add an observation on what’s happening in Greece:  Sadly, more of the same.  Everyone feels so overwhelmed by events, and distrusting of everything their politicians say, that I think it’s safe to say they’re just waiting for the other shoe to drop. 

Fall on East 72 Street in NYC

I fear it may be a boot.


—Jeff

Friday, October 23, 2015

Of Blood Moons And Mennonites


                                        
                                                      A familiar skyline.



On September 28, 2015, there was a rare blood moon eclipse. (Isn’t the Blood Moon a great name for a crime novel)? For once I was in the right place at the right time.


                                       


The best place to see it was off the East  Coast  of the States- which is exactly where I happened to be, cruising up to Nova Scotia, in a boat with a nice study for writing novels- and no internet.
It was a Super moon (when the Moon is closest to the Earth) so it looks big and very bright. A Super Moon is also known as a Perigee Moon.

                                      

All this will not happen again until 8th October 2033. I think it started kicking off at some point after midnight and sometime before 2 am. My body clock was saying it was lunchtime. But it often does.

Here are my pics, taken from a boat on the high sea in a very strong wind surrounded by Mennonites.

It is called a Blood Moon because of its reddish glow due to ‘Rayleigh scattering.’ Insert any Bouchercon joke you wish here....

                                   

Some Christian pastors claim that these eclipses of 2015 fulfil a Biblical prophecy of forthcoming difficult and trying times.
                                  

One Christian group that was keeping a close eye on the proceedings were the Mennonites.  There was some kind of Mennonite convention on board and the boat was full of these lovely people. When I saw them in the boarding area I thought they were Amish... the men were all tall and bearded, wearing braces and what I would call "farmer’s trews". The women all had the same style of dress but in different materials, and small hats, pinned on the back of their heads, under which was a coil of very long hair.  There was also a strong smell of Ralgex.
As my total knowledge of the Amish comes from this..

                                


You can understand my mistake

                                      
                          A very bad photo of the Mennonite Ladies and I, hiding from the wind.

But then I saw one of them on a mobile phone and another surfing the net on his tablet... and I thought not Amish but Mennonite.

They are a strikingly attractive people.  I thought of  Scandinavian decent from their blue eyes, blonde hair and high cheekbones. Indeed those on the boat were all very similar to look at, and there was a fair few hundred there. 
So I looked a little closer into their background.

There is much debate as to whether they are a religious denomination with members of different ethnic origins or just an ethnic group with one religious denomination.

They are one of the Anabaptist denominations, named after Menno Simons (1496–1561) of Friesland. They have been persecuted by just about everybody over the years. They fled from Switzerland originally, due to persecution by the Roman Catholic and Protestant states. Their huge commitment to pacifism means they flee rather than fight.

In 2015 there are about 2.1 million Anabaptists worldwide, including Mennonites, Amish, and Mennonite Brethren. Some Mennonites dress as those we encountered, others are referred to as "plain people" (indistinguishable from the general population).

They are in 87 countries with the largest populations being in India, Ethiopia, Canada, the Democratic Republic of the Congo, and the United States according to Wikipedia.

The one thing that struck me, was that they seem very happy people. They were always laughing. Telling jokes, with a very genteel larking about.

They joined me out on deck after midnight for the eclipse. Being a Scot I had sought out a wee nook that was sheltered from the howling wind. The Mennonite ladies who had joined their menfolk to see the spectacle were nearly being blown over board so I gestured that they should join me on a sofa that had some protection from the gale.  I didn’t speak as it was pointless to do so in that weather so they sat beside me, thinking that I did not speak English.

Of course, I shamelessly eavesdropped on their conversation- 
A waiter came up to offer them a beer. ‘We are Mennonites, we don’t drink', said Mr Charming (who was very handsome in a John Walton Senior kind of way). As the waiter walked away, he winked and muttered 'When there is anybody watching....'

He then asked the others what they had thought of the sermon that morning – ermm, well. MMM. Turns out none of them had actually been.  They then started playfully making the case for each other to attend the next morning sermon... as they would be too tired after watching the eclipse. The unlucky one got 'voted in'.  There was plenty of chat about mobile phones, tractors, cheese, tractors, milk and tractors.

I read that they raise a lot of money for hurricanes, floods, and other disaster relief and give a lot to long-term international development programs as well as becoming politically involved with peace and social justice issues.
                                          

Their European history seems to retell the same tale of persecution from A to B where they flee A,  B allows them to farm on land that has been considered unfarmable. They make a success of it and then the land is reclaimed by the B state, forcing the farmers to pay high tax to stay there… and the tax got higher, often being higher than the money they raise by the farming, so they had to buy their way out to another community (C) where they were welcomed because of their honesty and hard work, they would start farming.. the farms would become profitable, they would be taxed....

“The Mennonites often farmed and reclaimed land in exchange for exemption from mandatory military service. However, once the land was arable again, this arrangement would often change, and the persecution would begin again. Because the land still needed to be tended, the ruler would not drive out the Mennonites but would pass laws to force them to stay, while at the same time severely limiting their freedom. Mennonites had to build their churches facing onto back streets or alleys, and they were forbidden from announcing the beginning of services with the sound of a bell.”

Their refusal to take up arms has often led to them being persecuted.

This sense of being moved on has given then a very strong sense of community and probably, their habit of living and worshipping very simply.

 As with every faith, cracks appeared – they did try to stay together but different groups wanted variation on their theme of peaceful simple life. Amman and his followers split to become the Amish and now there are every variation on the theme -Old Order Amish, New Order Amish, Kaufman Amish Mennonites, Conservative Mennonite Conference and Biblical Mennonite Alliance.
I think most of ones I encountered came from Pennsylvania judging by their conversation, and I read that there are over 300 separate congregations there, making it one of the largest hubs in the USA.

                                                  
                                       From the internet  but this is a typical Mennonite girl

As previously said, the women have exquisite bone structure, the teenage girls huddled together and giggled like Austin’s heroines. I wondered if these conventions act as some kind of dating agency.

 Within their faith, the single are supposed to be chaste (not chased). They believe marriage should be a lifelong, monogamous and faithful covenant between a man and a woman. While divorce is rare, when it does occur it carries no stigma if abuse of any kind is involved. And they allow gay marriage, and in 2014, the Mountain States Mennonite Conference licensed an openly gay pastor.
They had their first female pastor in 1911!!

 The distinguishing characteristic is one of emphasis rather than rule; peace, community and service.  
Europe is the only highly populated continent where the number of Mennonites is falling. Everywhere else, their numbers are growing.
“Africa has the highest membership growth (increase of about 11% every year esp. in Ethiopia).
African Mennonite churches had a 228% increase in membership in the 80s and 90s in Tanzania, Kenya, and the Congo. The Mennonites were restricted in South Africa because of the government's distrust of pacifist churches but they have been expanding since 1994. Because of the increase in African membership, the Mennonite World Conference was held in Zimbabwe in 2003.

Caro Ramsay  23 10 2015























Thursday, October 22, 2015

Student Protests

Michael - Thursday


Wits students protesting the fee hikes this week
This week has seen an eruption of student unrest in South Africa that has led to student injuries, tear gassings and arrests.  Roads were blocked and cars overturned.  Staff have been threatened.  Students have clashed with police leading to tear gassings, student injuries, and arrests.
Blocking roads
This was quite normal in the late eighties and early nineties when the student protests were directed at the apartheid government and usually had the implicit support of academics.  Often they led to violent responses by the police.  At least at Wits University no one was shot, although many students were injured in various ways.
Protest at Wits
With the change of government, there was a period of calm.  But structural problems remain and they are no longer just black and white.  Now the issue is more focused on the haves and the have-nots.  The struggle now is more a class struggle and it is no longer directed at the government; now it is directed at the universities themselves.  Wits University has been closed for the whole of this week.

The first rumblings of what the students described as a plan to decolonize the universities arose over monuments that seemed unconnected with South Africa’s apartheid past.  They are, but they are not unconnected with South Africa’s colonial past that was just as unsavory.  The United Party governments that preceded the hated National Party government were pretty well as racist as their successors, they just didn’t institutionalize it in the same way.  Young people in South Africa are now looking at both the present and the past.  They point to the disproportionate number of white academics and the universities’ elitist approach.  They are highly dissatisfied with the performance of the current government in terms of jobs, service delivery, restitution of land, and uplifting the poor.  They are not wrong.  These are hard problems and take time, but seeing government ministers and many others – black and white – enjoying super-luxurious living doesn’t sit well.  

Demand to move the Rhodes statue
Looking back to colonial times they demanded to know why a statue of Cecil John Rhodes graced the University of Cape Town.  Yes, he gave the university land and money, but, they ask, who did he steal those from in the first place?  That’s a fair question.

Not only students had turds for Rhodes!
And fall it did...
After much soul searching and gnashing of teeth, the statue has been moved elsewhere.  Many English speaking South Africans are scandalized.  Many white Afrikaans speaking South Africans are no doubt delighted at the demise of the British imperialist, while they shake their heads at the antics of the students that included flinging dog turds at the statue. 

The flashpoint this week was the decision by universities around the country to increase tuition fees next year by over 11%.  Inflation is supposed to be around half that, but that doesn’t really describe the increase in university expenses in a meaningful way.  Many research costs are based in foreign currency (equipment, books, conferences) and the rand has weakened 20% over the year.

At a rushed meeting at the end of last week it was decided by the universities in consultation with the minister that the fee increases will be capped at 6%.  As far as I can discover, no one has explained how the extra 5% is going to be made up.  (I did receive a memo today indicating that tea and coffee would no longer be supplied in the common room; that should go quite a way to help!)

The students were not impressed.  Their response was that they could not afford any increase, in fact they demanded that tertiary education should be free. The demonstrations moved to parliament house where the finance minister was giving a downbeat assessment of the economy and the budget for next year.  Twenty-three students were arrested.

Protest in Cape Town
The students believe that their predecessors brought down the apartheid government by these tactics.  The ANC government and the universities better not treat this lightly.

Wednesday, October 21, 2015

Shadow Time



Built from an old factory near Penn Station, the Baltimore Design School is a selective public school for young artists

It’s autumn in Baltimore. Leaves are falling, squirrels are making off with walnuts and acorns, and we are entering the Season of Shadowing.

I’m not referring to the blackness of early morning or the upcoming holiday of Halloween.  Shadowing is the process in which a prospective high-schooler spends a day following a slightly older student. It’s a look into another world.

Shadowing is on my mind, because my son’s looking around this fall. We have another student in the family: a daughter who’s set to graduate from the Baltimore Polytechnic Institute next spring. “Poly" was established by the city in 1883 as a public high school specializing in math, science and engineering. It has a selective admissions process; something that is startling to many people in this country.

Here's how it works: a student’s standardized tests, and marks from grades six through the first quarter of eighth grade, are analyzed at the headquarters for the Baltimore Public Schools.  Based on these data, a cumulative number is created for the student. Those 13- and 14-year-olds with a certain number or higher are judged eligible to compete for admission to several rigorous high schools.

Baltimore Polytechnic Institute is now located in a 1950s building in North Baltimore

My daughter was fortunate enough to have a stack of excellent report cards by the age of thirteen. However, admission-based public education illustrates the difficulties for any young person with a learning difference or a less-than-perfect academic record. To its credit, the Baltimore Public Schools does have a conservatory-style School for the Arts, where a professional faculty decide admissions solely on talent displayed at auditions or with a portfolio.

A new Design School for middle through high school also admits based on portfolio work. The BCPS also provides access to several charter high schools and other high schools with a special focus (tourism work, health care, digital technology, the mechanical trades). This batch of schools offers places to students through a lottery, interviews and other processes. Those who don’t get in are assigned to general education high schools throughout the city.

Of course, there’s another option: independent schools. 

The Baltimore Friends School, established in 1784, has since built a new campus on N. Charles Street

Baltimore is one of the oldest cities on the Eastern Seaboard. By the 19th century, Baltimore’s port and railway connections made it the nation’s wealthiest city, following New York. Baltimore’s boom years, which lasted into the early 1960s, resulted in the establishment of dozens of private and parochial schools, many which are still thriving. Through energetic fundraising and endowments, these schools offer many merit and financial scholarships. Several have build student populations that are more ethnically mixed than the city’s public schools. Testing and prior grades are part of admissions at these schools, but teacher recommendations, athletic and artistic prowess, student essays, and shadow visits also come into play.

Just part of Gilman School's sprawling campus in Roland Park


Recently, my son shadowed at one of the private boys’ schools. He was nervous from the start. Getting ready that morning, he asked if I was sure that he was supposed to wear khaki trousers, a collared shirt with a tie, and non-athletic shoes. He worried about whether I should pack him a lunch—or if there really was going to be a free lunch in the cafeteria.

It was just a few miles to the sweeping campus set out on green lawns, but it felt like another world. In a neo-classical building, I handed over my miniature businessman to an even smaller boy wearing a blue blazer and bow tie.

At day’s end, my son described a happy experience. The two boys assigned to lead him through the school were friendly. He chose pasta for lunch in the cafeteria, marveled at the use of laptops in classrooms, and got the low-down on the baseball team from a friendly coach. And then there was the other part of school: class time. My son was surprised to find the Latin class so interesting.

No matter where you are, school is an emotional issue that taps into feelings of parental insecurity. The family who sends a child to one school—while most of the neighbors use another—might feel their decision sets them apart socially. Other parents take out huge mortgages on small homes in highly-rated suburban school districts. Nobody wants to feel that they did less for their children than they could have.

The Baltimore School for the Arts located in Mt. Vernon 

Because we’ve lived in two different states, our children have (so far) attended six schools, public and private. I don’t know if they remember most of their schooling. To me, it’s a blur of lunchboxes, PTA meetings, theme nights and teacher conferences. I find it difficult to reconcile my 17-year-old who loves forensics with the pink-and-purple fairy-winged princess of kindergarten, and my lanky, athletic 14-year-old with the chubby first grader who loved building with Legos.


But if I could write their report cards, all this would be there.

Monday, October 19, 2015

Brimstone Hill, St. Kitts



Brimstone Hill is on St. Kitts, one of the Leeward Islands of the Lesser Antilles.



St. Kitts is a nickname for St. Christopher.  Columbus, who visited and claimed the island for Spain in 1493, named it after his patron saint.  Between 1538 and 1783, the British and the French fought repeatedly over this tiny bit of sugar-producing turf until the Brits finally won out for good.



All this hostility gave birth to the Fortress at Brimstone Hill, a military complex built on a steep hill at the westernmost point of the island overlooking the Caribbean Sea.  The British placed the first cannon there in 1690 and, using African slave labor, continued to build up the site over the next hundred years, until it was so large and imposing, it was dubbed the Gibraltar of the West Indies.



In 1783, in Brimstone Hill’s last decisive battle, the French Admiral Comte Francois Joseph Paul de Grasse laid siege to the fort.  After a month, heavily outnumbered, the British Admiral Hood surrendered.  But then, less than a year afterwards, the French ceded it back to Britain in the Treaty of Paris.  Nevertheless, the French Navy made another try for it in 1806.  They failed.  The British, secure in their possession of the island, abandoned the site in 1853.



 My visits to this historic fort took place thirty-seven years apart.   The only battle on the site in between my trips was the one for its survival.  In 1973, the cannon were still there, as were roofless buildings, walls in disrepair, lots of vines and tropical weeds, and quite a few vicious insects.  That very year, HRH Prince Charles also visited Brimstone Hill.  Then, restoration began in earnest.  In 1985, HRH QEII unveiled a plaque that declared the site a National Park.  Then, in 1999 UNESCO named Brimstone Hill as a World Heritage Site.  By our second visit in 2011, it was obvious that the good guys (the preservationists) had finally won.

Here’s more of what it looked like on January 11th of 2011, or as I like to write the date 1/11/11.




























Annamaria - Monday




Annamaria - Monday