Showing posts with label Tattoo. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tattoo. Show all posts

Thursday, September 4, 2014

Travelling

Murder is everywhere – and so are many of those who write about it.  Annamaria is communing with elephants, serval, zebra, and wildebeest in Kenya.  Caro, recently, was wandering around Ketchikan, Alaska.  Cara is, as far as I can see, in France.  Lisa is in or going to China.  Yrsa is in New Zealand (I think).  Jeff is in Mykonos.  Who knows where Zoë is.  And Michael has just returned from wandering around South Africa.

So that leaves me.  Where have I been?

Well, I, too, have been travelling – most recently to the home of two of my grandparents - Scotland.  My grandfather, Hugh Scott MacGregor of Glasgow, and my grandmother, Francis Meta Watt of Edinburgh, emigrated to South Africa in the early 1900s, met there, and married in 1913.

I started with a wonderful and, remarkably, dry week of golf in Nairn on the Firth or Moray, close to Inverness.  This was links golf at its best.  This name comes from the fact that the golf course is built on the piece of land, usually not arable, that links the sea with the arable land.  Consequently most links courses are long and thin, often with the first nine holes going away from the clubhouse and the second nine going back.  I sliced one shot onto the beach and recovered by clambering over the sea wall and hitting a fine seven iron to put the ball back in play.  I hit another shot onto the beach a day later, but the tide was in and the ball is forever in the Firth.

The most unexpected part of my trip to the northern parts of Scotland was how often I felt I needed an interpreter.  The language sounded braw, but I didna ken what was going on.  I felt like a right sassenach bampot.  Ma wee brain was befuddled most of the time.

Nairn golf course - I never had to use my umbrella

Then to the beautiful, but grey, Edinburgh for the Festival, Fringe Festival, and Tattoo.  For the month of August, the city is awash with music, plays, stand-up comedy, and buskers.  It is amazing.  There are literally thousands of shows, starting in the morning, going into the wee hours.  We enjoyed Japanese drummers, Brazilian dance and music, eclectic jazz, South African a capella singers, chamber music, very funny reviews, and of course the Tattoo.

End of Queen's Mile approaching the castle



The castle just before the Tattoo
The Tattoo is a spectacular evening display of massed military bands – I go there for the bagpipe bands – with Edinburgh Castle as the backdrop.  The Gods were kind that evening, and for the rest of the week, and we kept dry.

During the Tattoo

Massed bands

The castle changes colour.



Then, after dining with various relatives, and being entertained by Caro and Alan for dinner at the Lodge at Loch Lomond, we went to the wild, west coast, which is ruggedly beautiful.  I am pleased to report I understood about 80% of what the two said.

Caro and Alan at Loch Lomond
Our dinner view
En route, we stopped at the amazing Falkirk Wheel - an amazing device that raises and lowers barges between the Forth and Clyde canal to the Union canal, which is about 30 metres above it.  The structure is huge and incredibly efficient.  It takes virtually no energy to lift and lower barges and boats because of the counterweighted caissons that hold the boats - each contain about a quarter of a million litres of water.  Thanks to Archimedes Principle, the two caissons always weigh the same, no matter how many boats are in them. 

Falkirk Wheel

Barge approaching Falkirk Wheel
One of the seaside towns we stayed at was Oban, which is beautiful, but a bit touristy.  And the seafood was magnificent - particularly the mussels.

Oban

Oban

Oban

Moi

Huge, delicious Oban mussels
Two of Scotland's western isles that we visited stand out:  Iona and Staffa.  Iona is the birthplace of Christianity in Scotland, with a monastery being established there by a priest, Columba, in 563.  Then it grew into the most famous abbey in the country.  It often had problems with marauding Vikings, who seemed to take delight in showing up every year or two, killing the monks, knocking down the abbey, and leaving.  Eventually, the Vikings stayed and were converted.  Then there were no more Viking invasions.

Huge, ancient stone cross

Modern sculpture in abbey courtyard

Run of an old church

It was Staffa that took my breath away.  It is very small Hebridean island, near the Isle of Mull, that boast some of the most striking basalt columns I’ve ever seen.  It is also home to Fingal’s Cave, which Mendelssohn visited in the 1820s and was so impressed he wrote an overture about it, called The Hebrides Overture, commonly known just as Fingal’s Cave.  The opening to the cave is about 25 metres high, and the cave is about 60 metres long.

I’ll let photos tell the rest of the story.

Staffa with its three types of basalt.  Entrance to Fingal's Cave is on right.



The views are breath taking

Stunning views
The geometric tops of basalt pillars


Fingal's Cave

View from inside Fingal's Cave
You can listen to Mendelssohn's overture by clicking here.

Stan - Thursday


Thursday, August 21, 2014

Role Models

I am in Edinburgh at the moment, enjoying the offerings of the Festival and the Fringe Festival, as well as a few of the local pubs.  Time flies when you're having fun, so I've decided to rerun a blog I wrote in October 2010.  I was reminded of it because of all the Scottish accents around me - some of which are broad enough that I need a translator!  My grandfather lived with us when I was young - he was from Glasgow - and was very influential in instilling in me a love of reading.

Last night I went to that great Edinburgh event - the Tattoo.

The very impressive Edinburgh Castle

Finale with all the performers from around the world - including Zulu dancers who must have been freezing in the cold wind.

Later today I will sup with that great Glasgow institution - Krimi writer, Caro Ramsey!

Stan - Thursday
_______________________________


Neither of my parents did well at school.  Both failed their Matriculation exams (the national examination taken when a senior).  My mother was a warm, generous person but not inclined to study.  My father was extremely smart, but a lousy linguist and failed Afrikaans, which meant he failed Matric overall.  I suspect his standing at home improved when he came second in the British Commonwealth Accountancy Exams a few years later.

Neither of them went to university.

But both of them were dedicated to providing their kids the best educational opportunities possible.  So I and my two brothers were sent to a parochial school in Johannesburg, not for the religious training (my family were not good churchgoers) but because it had the reputation of being the best school in town.

But more than providing that opportunity, about which I’ll say more later, they also made home a place to learn – not in any mandated way (other than homework, of course) – but by surrounding us with the opportunity to learn.  For example, although neither of my parents really enjoyed classical music, they bought several Readers Digest sets of LPs (that’s long-playing records for the younger set!) of famous symphonies, concerti, etc.  They bought The Hardy Boys books and Teddy Lester’s Schooldays, and encourage us to read the ‘one and thrups’ (comic books that cost one shilling and three pence), many of which were graphic versions of the classics.  And they were always willing to fork out for new books.

Gramps
While my parents provided the opportunity, my grandfather provided the passion.  Hugh Scott MacGregor was gentle Scottish mining engineer from Glasgow.  He and his wife, Francis Meta Watt (from Edinburgh and a relative of the steam man), came to South Africa shortly after the Anglo-Boer War in the early 1900s.  He came to work on the fabulously rich gold mines around Johannesburg.  With him he brought a beautiful, but simple bookcase, which I still have, and a collection of classical books – Walter Scott, George Meredith, Charles Dickens, John Ruskin, Robbie Burns, and so on, which I also still have.

Hugh LOVED to read.  But more than that, he knew a lot – about a lot.  So I have very fond memories of general knowledge contests around the dining room table.  My mother wasn’t so good, nor were my brothers, but Hugh and Bill (my dad) were good – my father surprisingly so since he never seemed to read anything other than the newspaper.  Being mildly competitive, I found that these competitions were an incentive for me to read more so I could stump the others.

Gramps's bookcase
But it was Gramps’s bookcase that hooked me.  Actually the books inside.  I can imagine me as a young boy taking out a leather book and opening it.

“It was the best of times, it was the worst of times….”

How could one put the book down?

Or in another leather book – it was deep red, I remember - :

‘When chapman billies leave the street,
And drouthy neibors, neibors, meet;
As market days are wearing late,
And folk begin to tak the gate,
While we sit bousing at the nappy,
An' getting fou and unco happy,
We think na on the lang Scots miles,
The mosses, waters, slaps and stiles,
That lie between us and our hame,
Where sits our sulky, sullen dame,
Gathering her brows like gathering storm,
Nursing her wrath to keep it warm."

How could I not love poetry?  Especially when Gramps read it with his soft brogue.

St. John's College, Johannesburg
My schooling was at an Anglican school in Johannesburg: St. John’s Preparatory School, and for high school, St. John’s College.  Not only was it a beautiful environment, built in the early 1900s from stone, sitting on top of a koppie (small hill) in the middle of Johannesburg, but it was focused on producing rounded young gentlemen (very much in the English public school tradition).  So everyone was required to play sport.  In primary school, because I have such awful foot-eye coordination, I was relegated to being goalkeeper on every football (soccer) team.  I was actually quite good in that position because I am blessed with excellent hand-eye coordination.

 I also played cricket (a lot), rugby (a lot), tennis (a lot), and swam (a lot).  In fact (he said blushing), I still hold the Under 9 25-yard backstroke record!  That is the truth.  But perhaps not the whole truth!  It behooves me to disclose that the year after I broke the record, the school built a new pool that was 25 metres long.

But I digress.

What was wonderful about St. John’s was the emphasis on reading and the enjoyment of literature.  For example, in my senior year, I studied (and I mean studied) Merchant of Venice, Pygmalion, Pride and Prejudice, as well as an anthology of poems ranging from Tam o’ Shanter to Young Ethelred.  And I repeated the exercise with books in Afrikaans and Latin.  (There’s a thought:  translating Tam o’ Shanter into Latin.)

Stan as Goneril's gorgeous handmaiden
My English teacher would often have a group of boys to his house on a Sunday evening to talk about literature or to read One-Act plays.  Furthermore, in high school the school produced a different Shakespeare play every other year, and on the intervening years produced a Gilbert and Sullivan.  I was banned from the latter because of my lack of singing ability.  So I was a gorgeous handmaiden to Goneril in King Lear, and Salerio in Merchant of Venice.  In primary school, I was the March Hare in Alice in Wonderland.  I also produced a very funny One-Act play called The Rehearsal, which is worth reading.

So, as I look back on my life, I can see how greatly I have been influenced by those around me – the role models within my family and those they surrounded me with, and many stimulating, dedicated teachers.

When I think of how fortunate I have been, I naturally think of the many kids out there without role models.  Whose lives will be poorer because of it.

Stan - Thursday