Bring Us Authentic Mykonos

 

Saturday–Jeff

 

Over what’s fast approaching fifteen years, I’m honored to have been often asked to contribute articles to Mykonos Confidential, the classic summertime magazine voice of the island’s storied past, and chronicler of its nonpareil hedonistic present. 

 

This year I was asked to write a piece tied into the issue’s theme of “authentic Mykonos.” Which got me to thinking about what is authentic and what makes something so. My answer took me back to the past, into the present, and on to the unexplored future. Rarely have I been asked to comment on my island’s future…perhaps because Casandra’s efforts it that regard didn’t end well for her.

 

But what the heck, here’s my vision of what may lie ahead.  Not sure you’ll agree, but it’s my keyboard.

 

The text of my article, titled Bring Us Authentic Mykonos, is set out below, and appears on pages 54-55 of this link to the magazine.  It kicks off a series of other essays in a section titled,“The Talk: Memories , Opinions & Insights––Confessions on the dance floor, visions for the next day of Mykonos, thoughts de profundis.”

 

All exploring a place unlike any other.

 

Enjoy—or better yet, think.

 

Mykonos Confidential asked me, as a longtime lover of Mykonos and author of crime novels set here, to focus my thoughts on “the original sense of Mykonos, the remains of it, or the new shape of authenticity for our roller coaster of an island.”

 

That seemed a relatively simple task.  Just describe my decades-old memories of a favored beach, taverna, club, museum, church, or hotel, plus the mode of transport that took me there, and be done with it. After all, I wasn’t being asked to undertake a Jason-like search for the Golden Fleece or describe experiences reminiscent of Odysseus’ struggles to return home.

 

Or was I?

 

According to The Cambridge Dictionary, something is authentic if “it is real, true, or what people say it is.”

 

I take that to mean each of us creates personal visions of what is authentic and what’s not, and when asked to describe what we regard as authentic with respect to place, it all depends on what happens to be extant at the instant a particular slice of time is etched into our memory.

 

That is not a new phenomenon.  What is authentic to those of us who recall Mykonos of decades past is undoubtedly different from what each preceding generation–running back to antiquity–would recall as authentic. 

 

Such is the natural order of things, for once the current is identified as authentic of the past it becomes the target of the forces of NOW relentlessly pressing to cast away the authentic in quest of the blockbuster new.

 

It seems appropriate at this point to offer examples of authentic Mykonos that no longer exist. It’s not an exhaustive list of what I bemoan, but nor do I mention any authentic that remain, out of fear that will doom them:

 

Joanna’s Nikos Place at Megali Ammos—home away from home.

Montparnasse Piano Bar in Little Venice––where Broadway met the beach.

Elia Beach in its virginal state––pristine and free.

Fouskis’ boat Delfini between Chora and Elia––where strangers became friends.

Seven Sins Bar—informal spontaneous cocktail parties with its Lalaounis neighbors.

Thalami Bar beneath City Hall––where kamakis came each night to show off their catch.

Piero’s—Mykonos’ symbol to the world.

Caprice Bar in Little Venice––the epitome of sunset experiences.

Vengera at the top of Matogianni Street––where people-watching got its start.

Nine Muses––where jetsetters came to party.

And most of all, Tassos Stamoulis––the island’s most universally beloved and respected man.

 

Tassos Stamoulis

Having said all that, I can think of no place on earth better exemplifying the principle of shifting authenticity than Mykonos.  Each year our island experiences striking changes.  New hotels, new restaurants, new homes, new clubs, new beach rules, new traffic patterns, new shops, new complaints, and new ideas.  “New” springs up each year like mushrooms, in what’s become an entrepreneurial paradise for those seeking to capitalize on the hopes, desires, and fantasies of hundreds of thousands of first-time visitors seeking to be part of the fabled and heavily promoted Mykonos experience.

 

I’ve come to accept that each first-time visitor to Mykonos will form his/her/hir/their own authentic vision of the island, one likely very different from my own but no less vivid or valid a measure of their adventure.

 

I do not quarrel with those who mourn the passing of the places, people, and way of life epitomized in their private memories of Mykonos.  I share many of those feelings. Yet, I’m buoyed by realizing how blessed I’ve been to have lived a life–and met my wife–amid my authentic Mykonos.  What I wish for new discoverers of Mykonos is that they find similar opportunities for forming bonds and memories as lasting and rewarding as my own.

 

I have no doubt achieving that goal will require vigilance on the part of those entrusted by the Mykonian people to faithfully shepherd the island forward in a manner dedicated to protecting the existential spirit of this blessed place, while resisting the proffered temptations of false prophets and the ever-present lure of easy profits.

 

That is a daunting challenge, for maintaining the authentic values of a community requires unwavering loyalty to real and honorable principles.

 

But I hold out hope.

 

––Jeff

 

Jeff’s Upcoming Events

 

Bouchercon 2022   Minneapolis, MN

Thursday, September 8th  11:30-12:15 

"Odd Jobs: Writers Write What They Know."

Alan Gordon AKA Allison Montclair (Moderator), Julie Holmes, Donna Andrews, Linda O. Johnston/Lark O. Jensen, Annelise Ryan, Jeffrey M. Siger

The Bitter and the Sweet

Jeff—Saturday

First the Bitter.

All of Greece is in mourning, and I’m purposely not posting photographs of the source of its grief.  The world’s seen enough of those scenes by now. 

The fires this week that claimed so many lives weigh heavy on the nation’s mind. So, too, do the responses of its government officials to criticism of both their preparedness and reaction to a far from unexpected phenomenon—wildfires happen across Greece every summer. It is a developing story, with finger pointing well underway. Indeed, the head of the junior coalition party sharing power in the current government (he serves as Defense Minister), in an interview with the BBC, blamed the victims for building their homes illegally. Here’s a link to that much talked about interview.

As would be expected, much speculation is being bandied about in search of an explanation for how this tragedy came to pass.  Some theories are rational, some clearly not. For a good primer on where things stand at the moment, I suggest reading an article in Wednesday’s New York Times, by Jason Horowitz, titled, “In the Aftermath of Greek Fires, Suspicion Combines with Grief and Recrimination.” 

Barbara and I add our prayers to those of the many from around the world sharing in Greece’s mourning. 

Now for the Sweet.

Not actually sweet, more like bitter-sweet.  It’s an article I wrote for the just published thirteenth-year anniversary issue of Mykonos Confidential, the sleek, annual summer magazine celebrating all things Mykonos that’s come to be known as the “Bible of Mykonos.”

The theme for this year’s issue, as envisioned by its publisher, Petros Bourovilis, was “My Summer of Love,” and so that’s what I wrote about.  Whether or not my tale is what Petros expected I cannot say, but I can assure you it’s all true, and reveals how I came to write my first mystery novel on Mykonos.

PS. In the interest of full disclosure, I also was asked to participate in the fashion shoot section of the magazine (for comic relief, no doubt) and most of the photos in this post are taken from that totally fun experience, as captured by photographer Thanasis Krikis, and styled by Stefanos Zaousis . Thank you, one and all.   Here’s the article:   

  

“My Summer of Love” is a tricky subject. It can mean decidedly different things to different people. Perhaps that’s why Mykonos Confidential chose it as the topic for the likes of me to write about?  After all, as varied and complicated as love relationships can be, so too, are our respective relationships with the island of the winds.

My Summer of Love experience occurred unexpectedly on a stifling August afternoon in 2005, during my third decade of summers on the island.  I’d not yet given up my New York City law practice, but had returned to Mykonos committed to writing a book about this place I call home.  I had no desire to write a guidebook, or wax on about summer tavernas and island romances.  I planned to write a serious novel, one that told the truth as I saw it about the island’s people, politics, culture, and beauty, but in a way that held my readers’ interest as we explored life together on the island. 

A murder mystery-thriller format seemed the natural way to go, but my plans encountered an unanticipated setback when my closest friend on the island deeply opposed my idea.

We’d been friends since my first day on Mykonos.  I happened to pass by his jewelry shop on my way into town from my hotel, and though I forget how he’d lured me inside, the next thing I knew I was (unsuccessfully) dodging drinks, pastries, and candies.

Unbeknownst to me, I’d stumbled upon the most loved man on Mykonos.  A consummate gentleman and fervent booster of the island, he had an extraordinary circle of local, national and international friends, all of whom made a point of regularly stopping by to say hello to him.

Over the years we developed a deep friendship, sharing our birthday parties (he was seven days younger than I), watching out for each other’s children (I escorted his older son to his first days at Syracuse University), and attending together many a Mykonian panegyri, concert, baptism, wedding, and funeral. Without my realizing it, he’d subtly turned me into a Mykonian—or at least as close to that elevated status as a non-Greek American could hope to achieve.

Me, Tassos, Renate and Thomas McKnight

That’s why, when he expressed his heartfelt concern that placing a murder mystery on Mykonos might harm the island, I put my project on hold. Disappointed as I was, I did not want to write anything that might harm his business, or reflect badly on him in the eyes of Mykonians because of our friendship.

Then came August.

I’d stopped by his shop one evening around eleven, and he asked if I’d like to join him for dinner. He said he was “about to close,” but I’d been down that road many times before.  I knew that as long as a single potential customer lurked nearby, he’d remain open. True to form, we finally made it to the restaurant around one.

He had a lot of things on his mind, and I did a lot of listening.  Then out of the blue he said he’d decided I should write the Mykonos book I wanted to write.  I never asked him what had changed his mind.

We finished dinner, I walked him back to his home, and said goodnight. 

Around daybreak the next morning I received a call that my friend had suffered a massive stroke, and was at the medical clinic waiting to be airlifted to Athens.  I made it to the clinic as he was being wheeled to the ambulance for transport to the airport.

That was the last time I saw my friend alive. He died on August 3^rd, with family and friends at his bedside.

I know what you’re thinking. How could this horrific tragedy possibly serve as any sane person’s Summer of Love?

It’s complicated, but real.

His body arrived back on Mykonos by ferry to the old port. Tradition had family and friends meeting the casket there to accompany his remains to church for the funeral service. Fittingly, the procession passed by his shop on its way to Agia Kyriake.

I’m not Greek Orthodox, so I did not think it appropriate to participate as a pallbearer.  I walked close behind the casket, trailed by a crowd of hundreds. As the line of mourners approached Kyriake, Mykonians pushed me forward toward the casket, politely telling me to participate as one of the pallbearers. When I said, “I’m not Orthodox,” one of the pallbearers insisted I take over his position, saying, “You’re his friend, that’s all that matters.”

We carried his casket into the church, and I never felt closer to the people of Mykonos than I did at that moment.  My feelings only grew stronger once we left the church, and wound our way through the town’s narrow streets toward the cemetery.  Locals I barely knew kept stopping me to share hugs and tears over the genuine sadness we all felt at the loss of such an extraordinary soul.

During that brief bit of a summer afternoon, I was immersed in a communal outpouring of pure love, unlike anything I’d ever experienced before—or after.

Amen.

There is a remarkable postscript to this story, one I credit to the spirit of my dearly departed friend.  During his funeral, as I stood at the foot of his casket struggling to maintain my composure, I stared up at the church’s dome. Spread out before me in what I can only characterize as a vision, I saw the perfect story line for tying together all the many ideas for my book.  It was as if my friend were saying, ‘Okay, Jeffrey here it is, now write it.” 

I think it’s fair to say that my debut novel, Murder in Mykonos, is a product of “My Summer of Love.” Even today, it stands as a tribute to the memory of my friend, Tassos Stamoulis, proprietor extraordinaire of the Ilias Lalaounis Jewelry shop. God rest your kind, sweet soul, my friend. 

You remain deeply missed by all lovers of Mykonos. Perhaps now more than ever.

—Jeff