Showing posts with label Greek Spirit. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Greek Spirit. Show all posts

Saturday, October 29, 2016

As I Said Before, Greeks Know How to Say "No!"



Jeff—Saturday

As a matter of a fact, I said that precisely five years ago today!  My how time flies on Murder is Everywhere.  So, to bring things up to date...

Yesterday, October 28th, was a Greek National Holiday.  One of two publicly revered ones to be precise.  The other, March 25, commemorates the day in 1821 that Greece declared its Independence from the Ottoman Empire and fought until 1832 to obtain it.  


But it was yesterday that carried a more relevant lesson for those of you who might wonder about the effects on that nation of eleven million having endured more than a half-decade of economic crises exceeding the Great Depression, compounded by the European Union continuing to use their nation as a refugee filter trap for hundreds of thousands of families fleeing horrors not of their making, and a world media quick to disparage the Greek character with a catchy headline.   To those of you who wonder if the Greek spirit will somehow throw in the towel—I simply say, ‘NO.” 

Which is only appropriate since the name of yesterday’s holiday is “Oxi Day” (pronounced “O-hee”), meaning “no” in Greek.

And here’s how it came to pass. 

Thanks to John Pozadzides' blogsite for the photos.

On the morning of August 15, 1940, the Greek navel vessel Elli was in the harbor of the Cycladic island of Tinos.  It was peacetime and the light cruiser was anchored to participate in a major Greek Orthodox holiday, The Dormition of the Theotokos (Assumption of the Virgin Mary).  Without warning the Elle was torpedoed and sunk by a submarine, killing nine and wounding twenty-four.  Although fragments of the torpedo clearly identified its source, the Greek government officially declared the nationality of the attacking submarine as “unknown.”  The Greek government may have been reluctant to declare the attacker as Italy, and therefore immerse itself in war, but the people knew who was behind it.

Ioannis Metaxis

Two months later, around dawn on the morning of October 28, 1940, after a party at the German embassy in Athens, the Italian ambassador approached Greece’s Prime Minister Ioannis Metaxas and demanded that Greece surrender to the Axis powers or face immediate war with Italy.  He offered Greece three hours to decide.  Italy had seven times the population of Greece, seven times the troops, ten times the firepower, and total air superiority. 

The Prime Minister’s response was simple: “Oxi.”  And less than two hours later Italian troops stationed in Albania invaded Greece.  Occupation of Greece was critical to Hitler’s plan for isolating British troops in North Africa.  The Italians expected it to be a three-day war.  They learned otherwise. 

Oxi became the battle cry of the Greek people.  Within weeks the Italians were driven back into Albania, and repelled by the Greeks at every effort to occupy Greece.  It became clear to Hitler that Italy was not up to the task and on April 6, 1941 Germany invaded Greece, but it took even the Nazis five weeks to succeed.  Greek resistance had thrown off Hitler’s plans to capture Russia before the winter of 1941. 

The Greeks were the first people in Europe (outside of Great Britain) to stand up to the demands of Germany and its allies, but their one hundred eighty-five days of resistance took a horrific toll on their country:

One million of Greece’s citizens (13% of the population) are estimated to have died from battle, starvation, resistance, reprisals and concentration camps.

Greece’s infrastructure, economy and agriculture were destroyed.

Greece’s gold, works of art, and treasures were plundered.

Civil war followed and many emigrated.

On a purely economic basis, it is estimated that in standing up to the Axis’ threats Greece was left in financial straits twice as bad as it finds itself in today… and its societal costs were inestimably worse.

Oh, yes, and on that subject of catchy headlines or phrases attempting to capture Greece’s national character, let me offer a quote from someone who understood how the actions of the many, not the failings of a few, are what matters in any such sort of measure: “Hence we will not say that Greeks fight like heroes, but Heroes fight like Greeks.”  Winston Churchill.


—Jeff

Saturday, May 11, 2013

On Tinos the Greek Spirit Reigns Supreme



My buddy called me at 11AM and asked, “What are you doing.”  From experience I knew that meant only one thing: he was about to tempt me with some wild-ass distraction.  So, I laid it on heavy.

“I’m swamped. I’m in the midst of working on an essay I promised to contribute to a  ‘how to’ book on developing characters, under a deadline to get back to my publisher with ARC corrections on my new book coming out in September, immersed in preparing an outline for the month-long writing course I promised my alma mater I’d teach in January, and I’m trying to finish the 6th Kaldis book before the end of the summer.”

“Good, you’re not busy. We’re leaving in two hours on the ferry for Tinos. We’re invited to a panegyri which means you’re invited, too.”

And that, my friends, is how the ruination of all good intentions begins.

He knew I couldn’t resist. I hadn’t been back to Tinos since August. A less than thirty-minute ferry ride from Mykonos brings you to an entirely different world.  I’ve written about that Cylcadic island before (for Novel Adventures), and of course, it served as the venue for my 4th Andreas Kaldis adventure, Target: Tinos. 

"A" marks the spot of the panegyri

Most who know of Tinos do so because of its Church of the Annunciation, Panagia Evangelistria, the most revered religious shrine in Greece where more than a million pilgrims flock into Tinos’ harbor town each year, many seeking healing from its famed Miraculous Icon of the Virgin Mary. 

For me, though, it’s greatest attraction lay elsewhere: Fifty villages as quiet and undisturbed as a dreamer’s quaint fantasy of Greece; brilliant vistas at every turn; a meandering two-hundred-mile network of cobblestone trails and old farm paths running from hillside to hillside and dipping into valleys in between; and a history of fabled marble quarries and artisans linked to some of Greece’s greatest artistic achievements.

How could I resist returning there in glorious springtime? And, so, of course, I caved.

The hosting church of the panegyri

Technically, a panegyri is a party celebrating the name day of a Greek Orthodox saint, but in this instance the party was thrown by a Catholic church.  Unlike predominantly Orthodox Greece, Tinos has a substantial Catholic population with roughly one half of its formal churches Catholic, and whether this celebration was tied into the fortieth day after Catholic Easter or something else, I do not know.  What I do know is that from the moment we arrived in the tiny village of Kechros I felt I was home; and I’d never been there before.


Kechros is an inland agricultural community well east of the island’s dominating Mount Xobourgo—a soaring granite height, faced with sheer cliffs on three sides, due north of the port, and to which since pre-historic times the island’s inhabitants flocked for protection from all sorts of invaders.
Mt. Xobourgo

An on and off again misting rain sent more villagers (and visitors) inside than usual but the faces were all sunshine.   It was the sort of experience which reveals the bedrock Greek trait that keeps drawing me back to their land:  No matter what stresses are playing upon their souls, the Greeks’ innate sense of finding time to share in celebrating the simple joys of life reigns supreme. Nothing typifies that spirit more than an island panegyri, where all are welcome and rarely must one pay.


In a Tinos mountain village you might not find a pharmacy or supermarket, but there will be a welcoming smile as sweet as the island’s honey, and a likely winking eye for one who cannot resist snatching a lemon from a tree or an artichoke from it’s perch.


I enjoyed my afternoon journey into a different time, but it ended far too quickly and by evening I was back on the ferry returning to Mykonos.  There is so much to experience on Tinos, and each time I travel there I find a new reason to return. This time I found one again…the opening of a new local brewery.  We bumped into the owner and she invited us. 


Did I forget to say how very friendly are the people?  There’s a lot to learn from those who appreciate the simple pleasures of friendship, community celebration…and artichokes.


Whoops, must run. The brewery opens tonight.

Jeff—Saturday