The Cobblestones of Edinburgh

 Sujata Massey

Recently, the last cobblestone was mortared into place on my property in Baltimore, Maryland. Hundreds of grey-black bricks were originally laid down as a long driveway for carriages in the 1890s. Some of the bricks had broken and others had sunk into deep grooves as cars had rolled over them for more than 125 years. Stoneworkers carefully dug up the bricks, built a smooth foundation underneath, and then put the puzzle back together. Not only was the improved old driveway a safe surface to walk along, it seemed to make our house sit more happily in place.

I felt a sense of recognition a few weeks later while strolling the cobblestone streets of Edinburgh—-from New Town to the central district and the famed Royal Mile. The city’s government has without question preserved cobblestone streets, even in major thoroughfares. And my goodness—it was hard to imagine the Georgian and Victorian townhouses looking right without the cobblestone footing. Yes, the cars rolling over the surface would endure vibration, just as I felt the texture under the grip of my flat shoes. sensible flat shoes I’d brought. Keeping history was worth it, and the picture above of Circus Lane in Edinburgh’s Stockbridge neighborhood is reportedly the city’s most Instagrammed spot. Cobblestones plus a curve—well, doesn’t it return us to the illustrations in fairy tale books? 

Twas the house with blue doors!

I’d chosen an Airbnb property with the label ‘Elegant Georgian Townhouse Near Station’ because I wanted to stay in New Town, the locale of some of my favorite Alexander McCall Smith novels in the Scotland Street and Isabel Dalhousie series. This section of Edinburgh was planned for modern gracious living was was constructed in phases from the 1769s through 1850. A gridlike pattern of streets with squares and private gardens was designed by a vriety of architects such as Robert Adam and William Playfair who created a neo-classical style. While Edinburgh has been nicknamed “Athens of the North,” I felt an eerie kinship  between it and the British colonial sections of Calcutta and Bombay. Of course, India was part of the Empire, and all this building was going on at the same time. I spent my first five years of life in Britain, and many times during this visit I imagined what my life would I be living if my family had stayed rather than emigrated. Would I still be a writer? Something about the window views and quietness of the house made it feel natural to settle down to work here.

It’s rare to enjoy a temporary lodging so much that staying in becomes an essental pleasure of the holiday. And that’s how the renovated Georgian townhouse felt. To make coffee in a French press in large kitchen with beautiful cabinetry was treat enough, especially when paired with pastries from one of the nearby bakeries. I slept deeply in a 3rd floor bedroom with a window under the eaves.

The living room was beautifully furnished and was dominated by the original tall windows that kept the room quite light, whether the day was gray or sunny. I relaxed by studying the framed art of the walls and contemporary and antique books in shelves. If I could play piano, there was an art deco one available in its own charming room. 

The townhouse was in the northeast corner of the New Town, very close to Broughton Road and its many small independent shops, cafes and pubs. We had delicious fish and chips on our first night at Broughton’s, and later a phenomenal tapas-sized dinner at Rollo. The neighborhood boasted a butcher/cheese shop, an organic vegetable market, and a Tesco Express all within a few blocks. There seemed to be a vibrant mix of ages and incomes, and plenty of students, rather than tourists (although the city’s other areas were packed with vacationers from around the world, even in October). Despite this constant onslaught on the city from outsiders, the people were genuinely friendly and helpful. I felt the warmth in every shop and restaurant—whether the people chatting to us were native Scots or had emigrated. 

Scotland Street

We dragged ourselves of the neighborhood for a few adventures. It was easy to wander up to Picardy Place and take the tram to Ocean Terminal, where the retired Royal Yacht Brittania (Queen Elizabeth’s yacht from the 1950s through late 1980s) was avaialble for touring. I was excited to present this trip to my husband Tony, who was a medical officer with the US Navy during the early years of our marriage. Tony found it fascinating to explore a genuine military vessel designed as a luxury cruiser. I was excited to picture the royal family here and look at the design choices made from the 1950s to the 1980s. I could envision King Charles here as a boy, and later as a newlywed insisting on having the first double bed brought into one of the bedroom suites.

HMS Royal Brittania

The butler’s pantry

It felt like spying to view the royal bedrooms furnished with the same textiles and china the royal family had used—and intriguing to see the tight quarters that were home to the staff of about 240 naval crew who were present to run the ship when they toured. Queen Elizabeth II said this yacht was the place she felt most relaxed and happy. It must have been very tough for former Prime Minister John Major to ask the Queen to give up the ship due to its cost. Now it’s one of Edinburgh’s most successful, and accessible, tourist draws.

Exterior of National Portrait Gallery

Interior hall 

Tilda Swinton painted by her former husband John Byrne

Walking distance from the house was the fantastic National Portrait Gallery, which shared the oil paintings of figures from Edinburgh’s past with exciting photography and other media reflecting modern, diverse faces. Strolling through the New Town, I wandered into antiques shops that were laden with exactly the kind of art and wooden furniture that suit my taste, although not my suitcase boundaries.

We shopped for men’s clothing at the Scottish haberdashery, Walker Slater, where Tony got a wool jacket styled for country wear. Then I went to my Scottish friend Rehana’s favorite wool specialist in Newtown, a shop called Brora, where I allowed myself a Fair Isle vest. I rationalized that could be worn while traveling between locations since there was absolutely no extra room in my carryon. A sudden need to replace Tony’s fraying belt led us to walk into a neighboring shop, Ede and Ravenscroft that dates to 1689, and holds rank as the UK’s oldest tailor. They sold belts as part of their inventory of very fine traditional men’s clothing. Truly, they specialized in robes such as one worn by King Charles at his coronation, and more mundanely by judges and lawyers in the courts. The shop also provided the white Regency-era wigs that are still worn in the UK courts.

Merchandise at Ede and Ravenscroft

I thought Edinburgh’s compact size made it an easier major city to stroll, shop and be at home in than London. A recent Time Out survey proclaims that based on resident polling, Edinburgh is one of Europe’s most happy cities.

Yes, there will be rain, and sunshine is a come-and-go experience on most days. Yet the emotional weather—specifically, the cordiality of people—couldn’t be more gorgeous.