Saturday––Jeff
Barbara
and I have been planning our return to Greece come spring, and I came across an
essay I’d written several years ago for Chicago’s Hellenic National Museum on
the occasion of its Annual Gala. I hadn’t seen the article in years, and as I re-read
it I found myself once again amazed at how a cultural history more than fifteen
times older than the United States continues to inspire creativity, admiration,
and wonder among its people and worldwide fan base. Here’s my take on the magical draw of Greece.
The
Muse is always with them; they live in a place of complete happiness in
perpetual sunshine.
Those words are derived from the works of two
legendary Greek poets separated by 2500 years: Pindaros, the lyric master of
Greece’s Classic Golden Age, and George Seferis, a 20th Century,
Nobel Prize winning giant.
Each was speaking of Hyperborea, a mythical
land somewhere beyond the north wind.
Sort of like Peter Pan’s Never Never Land, but different.
It’s not surprising that they wrote of such a
place, for creative types are always searching for their Muse, and—except among
the clinically depressed—for happiness and sunshine. The artistic process is largely a solitary
quest, lived out among the thoughts, anxieties, and instincts of the mind, so
anything that helps bring about a visit from the Muse is as welcome as a pardon
to the imprisoned.
For writers, artists, and musicians in search
of inspiration who don’t like cooling their heels waiting for some fickle muse
to show up, or simply prefer finding one on their own, the trick is in knowing
where to look. To me the obvious
suggestion is the same today as it was in Pindaros’ time back in 500 B.C.E.,
“Seek a place of sunshine and happiness and ye shall find your Muse.”
Translation:
Go to Greece—even if it’s not as sunny and happy a place as it was a
couple of millennia ago.
That’s not novel thinking on my part. It’s been
that way practically forever. Foreigners
have always come to Greece to find their destiny. Even Herodotus, “The Father of History,” who
wrote Western literature’s seminal work on much of what our world knows of
Ancient Greece and its times, was not born in Greece, but in the rival Persian
Empire. He did not migrate to Greece until his late thirties where he composed
most of The Histories. In what some
might say was a nod of appreciation to what inspired Herodotus to create his opus, The Histories are divided into nine volumes, one named after each
Muse.
For many, the first person that comes to mind
when asked to name one among all the foreign cultural icons drawn to Greece to
find their Muse is Lord Byron, the notorious romantic poet who gave his life to
Greece’s War of Independence.
Less flamboyant, but no less inspired by Greece
was Byron’s friend and fellow Romanticist, Percy Bysshe Shelley, who wrote, “We
are all Greeks,” “Our laws, our literature, our religion, our arts have their
roots in Greece.”
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Lord Byron |
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Percy Bysshe Shelley |
Those roots transplanted well. There is not a
place on earth unaffected by the Muse that is Greece. W.H. Auden, another legendary English-born
poet perhaps put it best, “Had Greek Civilization never existed…we would never
have become fully conscious.”
But for most mortals it is not the study of
Greek history that brings fire to the creative experience; for that sort of
magic to happen you must experience Greece first-hand.
I love sitting on a beach in the early morning taking in the smell of wild
rosemary and thyme scented sea breezes, watching sunlight dance upon the water
casting the sea in hues of silver, rose, and gold, popping distant islands into
sight, and bouncing shades of blue across the sky to fire up a splash of green
along a light-brown hillside, a shot of pink amid oleander green, a beige
lizard against a gray wall, or a cresting wave of white against a deep blue
sea.
But my
favorite time of day is late afternoon, as light ranges across fields of ochre,
gray, and black––framed in the stones and shadows of ancient walls lumbering up
onto hillsides or sliding down toward the sea.
Those moments never fail to make me wonder how akin my own thoughts
might be to those of ancients who looked out upon those same hills, seas, and
sunsets so many thousands of years before.
How can one
not find inspiration in such moments? And many have.
Among the
world’s literary masters, John Fowles wrote and set The Magus on Spetses; Lawrence Durrell’s life on Corfu, Rhodes, and
Cyprus profoundly influenced all of his writing; Henry Miller, during a visit
to his friend Durrell on Corfu, wrote “The light of Greece opened my eyes,
penetrated my pores, expanded my whole being,” and penned what he considered
his finest book, The Colossus of
Maroussi; Louis De Bernieres’ Captain
Corelli’s Mandolin brought Cephalonia to life for much of the world; Mark
Twain, in The Innocents Abroad, the
best selling travel book of all time, described 1867 Greece in far less than
complimentary terms, but with observations of undoubted interest to students of
Greece today (Chapters 32 and 33); and Patrick Leigh Fermor’s work showed his
deep love and appreciation for all things Greek from before his days of service
as a war hero on Crete through his final ones in Kardamyli close by his beloved
Mani.
Musicians
of every genre have found their Muse in Greece.
Greek gods, heroes, and legends inspired operatic classics by the likes
of Mozart, Offenbach, Handel, Gluck, Verdi, Rossini, and Gounod. Others found musical inspiration though
experiencing the Greek life: Classic
violinist and conductor Yehudi Menuhin had his love affair with Mykonos (one
which I share), Joni Mitchell wrote and sang songs of her time spent on Crete,
Leonard Cohen found his home on Hydra influencing his work, as did Rhodes and
Pylion home owners Rick Wright and Roger Waters of Pink Floyd.
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Yehudi Menuhin of Mykonos
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And when it
comes to artists influenced by Greece, the list is endless. One from centuries back who immediately comes
to mind, even though he never travelled to Greece, is Eugene Delecroix for the
sheer power of his depiction in The
Massacre at Chios of the horror wrought upon that island during the War of
Independence. In the 1950s and 1960s, photographer Henri Cartier Bresson
captured the essence of Greece in black and white photos that give him claim to
rival Apollo for the title god of light. But of all the modern lovers of
Greece, no artist has charmed his Greek Muse more than American artist Thomas
McKnight. His instantly recognizable
work introduced generations of non-Greeks to the land he’s called his spiritual
home for more than forty years. Today,
more artists (including actors) are calling Greece home for at least part of
each year, notably American artist Brice Marden on Hydra, and Tom Hanks and
Rita Wilson of Antiparos.
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Thomas McKnight
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For those
of you who don’t think “sunshine and happiness” are a sufficient explanation
for why so many seek their Muse in Greece, I can offer you this observation by
the distinguished psychologist James Hillman, “We return to Greece in order to
rediscover the archetypes of our mind and of our culture.” But instinctively I think the answer lay
closer to the thinking of baseball philosopher Yogi Berra, “If you come to a
fork in the road, take it.”
After all,
that’s just about how author Truman Capote ended up spending the summer of 1958
on the island of Paros. He was soul searching.
He’d finished writing Breakfast at
Tiffany’s earlier that year and was a year away from beginning work on In Cold Blood, and as his time on Paros
drew to a close he wrote this line in a letter to his New York publisher,
Bennett Cerf, “I’m leaving here in four days—sad, it has been a wonderful
working-place.”
Yes, the
answer could be as simple as that.
Greece is just a wonderful place to create.
Personally,
I’d like to think there’s something deeper of a draw to this birthplace of the
gods where the Iliad and the Odyssey still serve as travel guides for
some. It’s not anything I can put my finger on, but I sense it’s out there,
waiting for the right moment and the right person. Just look to the Book of Revelation. Whether you believe
it’s a vision from on high or the inspiration of a man, there’s no denying its
impact on the world for nearly two thousand years.
And it all
began with one man sitting in a tiny cave on the island of Patmos, under a
bright blue sky, on a hillside staring out across green fields and olive trees
toward a sapphire sea laced with muted brown-green islands.
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John of Patmos
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I guess
what I’m getting at is that what draws so many creative types to Greece is
likely a question only God can answer definitively. All I know is that Greece
works just fine as my Muse, and for that I’m eternally grateful.
Yiasas.
––Jeff